Another reason: They usually aren’t dealing with the conflict of interest many veterinarians have: Recommending a food sold in the veterinary hospital or clinic.

Bear in mind, however, that dog-sport competitors can be a little too trendy when it comes to food. They’re often big on supplementing, prepared formulas as well as vitamins, vegetables, raw meat, or herbal concoctions. And that’s just flat-out not necessary for the normal nutritional demands of a dog whose primary job is companion.

Some supplements may even be dangerous, depending on what’s being added. So here’s a little advice: If you don’t know what you’re doing, don’t do it. Buy a top-quality food and leave it at that. And if you have questions, ask your veterinarian.

Don’t Worry About Getting Too Fancy

Don’t think it’s too dull if your pet’s food is just plain brown: Fancy shapes and chunks of meat or cheese – or bits made to look like meat or cheese – are put there for your benefit. As long as it smells good, your dog doesn’t care what it looks like. (There’s even a saying, “looks like the dog’s dinner,” that pretty much sums up the fact that our idea of unappetizing is not the same as our dogs.)

There’s no evidence these people-pleasing touches will hurt your pet unless they’re too high in sugar, fat, or salt for your dog – but they’re nothing you need to seek out, and you certainly shouldn’t pay extra for them.

Some people just can’t believe a dog can be happy with plain kibble, even of a top-quality variety. If it makes you happy, add some canned food, maybe a little water and microwave it briefly. You’ll likely get the enthusiastic response you’re looking for. (Don’t forget to cover the leftover canned food and refrigerate.)

Before you start feeding this way, however, consider this: Should you ever want to travel with your dog, or need to leave him with your veterinarian, at a boarding kennel, or with a house-sitter or friend, he’ll do better if he’s used to eating kibble.

When wolves stuffed themselves with 40 pounds of meat, their bodies couldn’t actually process that much at once. So they would waddle away from the table, throw up a little bit, then eat it to get the nutrients.

Dogs are a lot smaller than wolves, and it doesn’t take 40 pounds of meat to turn their stomachs. That’s why the kibble you pour in the bowl occasionally gets deposited in the corner a few minutes later. This has nothing to do with physical health or social graces. Their brains and stomachs are telling them that dogs who waste not, want not, and so they follow orders.

Given a chance to raid the food bag, most dogs will instantly revert to their old habits. Even when they don’t eat a lot, they do eat fast, and eating fast means that what goes in is going to try to come out.

Here are a few ways to protect the floors and keep their stomachs calm.

1. Give them more time: Dogs learn from experience. If you always pick up the food bowl the minute they’re done, they’ll figure that they’d better eat faster just in case you pick it up early. Leaving the bowl on the floor for 10 to 15 minutes after it’s empty will help them understand that they don’t have to rush.

2. Wet the food: Most dogs like a little gravy with their meals, and moistening dry food with warm water makes it more appealing. More important, it makes it easier to digest. Dogs are less likely to toss up their food when it’s not in hard chunks.

3. Give them less food, more often: Even though dogs are designed to handle very large meals, it’s better for their digestion to eat smaller amounts, more often. Veterinarians often recommend feeding dogs at least twice a day. Some say it’s better to feed them three, four, or even five times a day. The total amount of food will be the same, but the leisurely pace will help ensure that it stays where it’s supposed to.

Sticks don’t taste at all like bones, of course, and dogs do know the difference. But sticks have their own appeal. They have a musky, earthy taste that seems to appeal to dogs. And of course, they can find them just about anywhere. The dog-logic seems to be: “If l had a bone, I’d chew that. But since I don’t, this will do”.

Veterinarians worry about stick chewing because dogs will occasionally swallow what they chew. A mouthful of splinters isn’t likely to cause problems, but swallowing a large hunk of stick may. While some dogs do get overeager and gulp sticks as soon as they’re small enough to swallow, most just chew and spit, so to speak.  Still, you’ll want to be safe. Here are a few things to watch for.

Clear the yard of fruit branches: Dogs aren’t very selective about the types of sticks they chew. This can be a problem if you have apple, pear, or other fruit trees. The wood has a rich, aromatic taste that dogs like, but it also contains small amounts of toxins that can upset dogs’ stomachs.

Other types of wood can also make dogs sick – in some cases, seriously so. Branches from azaleas and trees such as black walnut, black cherry, red oak, black locust, yew, and red maple contain substantial amounts of poison. Dogs who chew enough of the wood can get very ill. If you’re not sure what type of wood your dog is chewing, keep it out of reach until you can make sure it’s not one of the hazardous varieties.

Limit the size: If your dog is going to chew sticks, make sure they’re too big to fit all the way in his mouth. Smaller sticks have a way of getting stuck, and more than a few dogs have found themselves with their jaws locked open because a stick got wedged inside. Big sticks have a way of turning into lots of little sticks, however. Once piles of debris begin accumulating, you’ll want to clean them up before your dog has a chance to take them back into his mouth.

Make sure he’s not a swallower: Most dogs just chomp and shred their sticks, leaving the wreckage on the ground around them. They don’t actually ingest much. Some dogs, however, swallow what they chew. Besides the risk of choking or intestinal blockages, dogs who actually eat sticks sometimes use them in place of regular food.

Licking another animal can broadly be classified as care-seeking behavior. However, in some females and apparently “feminized” males, licking may occur as a genuine mutual grooming gesture, which could be considered dominant behavior in such situations. When one dog tries to lick the genitals of another, the behavior is considered submissive. This is usually practiced by submissive pack members toward their dominant counterparts.

Licking seems to acquire different meanings when the puppy is brought into the human group. The significance of licking then depends on the type of feedback provided by the pup or its owners. The old idea that dogs lick our hands to benefit from the salt on our skin rarely applies to licking problems. Rather, the problem generally involves a submissive dog and a permissive owner. In these cases, early episodes of licking are permitted (some people feel genuinely flattered when their dog licks them) and the dog appears to enjoy the owner’s response.

In many cases, licking is a factor in another type of problem behavior. These usually involve the dog’s use of licking to dominate the owner’s attentions or to demonstrate its dominant feelings relative to the owner.

How Can Licking Be Prevented?

Licking is a problem only when the owner is present. Therefore licking is usually easily stopped merely by telling the dog not to do it or by moving away and avoiding it. After a few days or weeks of this rejection, the problem disappears. However, this procedure does not correct the basis of the problem, that is, attempts to dominate the owner.

In addition to discouraging licking, the dog must be taught to respond to commands, and owner adjustments made if the dog is “coddled” or otherwise doted on. When it seeks petting or tries to dominate the owner, it should be given a simple command, such as Sit, and then petted briefly as a reward for obedience.

It is recommended that you use some intervening stimulus when the dog begins to pester you. Whether this involves introduction of a chewable toy that the pet is urged to fetch, or a sharp sound, the goal is to divert the animal’s mind off licking and onto something else. During the initial stages of correction, there may be seen many types of substitute behavior, such as whining, pacing or self-licking. If ignored, this behavior usually disappears in a few days.

Therefore, no female dog should be bred who has an unsound temperament. If the temperament is the oven product of abuse, and the female exhibits exceptional redeemable qualities given an optimum supportive environment, breeding is a possibility. The attitude of the dam will always be reflected at least to some degree in every puppy.

The environment in which a litter is reared, therefore, is of paramount importance to having well socialized and confident puppies. As a result, it behooves anyone who engages in a breeding program, whether for a single litter or a long-term endeavor encompassing multiple years and litters, to breed only those dogs that most closely meet the breed Standard’s physical criteria, as well as those animals exhibiting the ideal temperament.

First of all, a healthy diet goes a long way! If your pet is being fed table scraps or dry food that is primarily composed of vegetable and grain, you may want to reconsider Fido’s diet. If your dog is often being fed “people” food from the dinner table, it can easily cause obesity. Dogs metabolisms and organs do not function just like humans do, dogs require special diets and food types to thrive…human food does not simply cut it. Also, dogs thrive on diets that consist of high protein and low vegetable and grain levels. Dogs are classified omnivores; that means they thrive on meat and vegetable diets. However, recent research strongly supports the theory that dog foods that are high in protein are more beneficial to pets. Talk to your local vet and they will help you find the best food choice for your dog.

Dogs also need exercise. Some dogs need more physical activity than others, depending on their breed. Be aware of your dog’s physical activity requirements and stick to them. If your dog’s breed needs a lot of exercise, give it to them! Keeping your pet healthy and happy should always be a top priority.

Next, dogs need vaccines and preventative treatments. Talk to your vet to find out what vaccines your dog needs (it sometimes varies on where you live or your dog’s breed), and make sure your pet gets vaccinated. Most dogs will also need heartworm treatments and flea and tick preventive treatments- several of these are applied topically between the shoulder blades.

Another important aspect of your dog’s health is simple grooming. Keep your dog clean; give him a bath regularly, brush his coat frequently and trim his nails. Many local pet supply stores offer grooming services, so you can shop while Fido is at the spa. Also, in many towns there are mobile pet grooming services that does home service and will ndrop by your home and groom your pet in their clean and safe mobile facility.

Finally, good dental health is always important not just for people! Buy your dog a doggie toothbrush and toothpaste (often sold at supply stores) and learn to brush your dog’s teeth. Dry dog food also aids in the reduction of plaque and tartar on the teeth and gums as well. There are also special chew toys that are designed to aid in keeping teeth clean as well.

As you adjust to your new dog or consider getting one, your pet’s health should always be a priority. A healthy pet makes for a happy pet!

Visit Dog-Training-Collars.org and Hunting Dog News for more great content.

Article Source: Dog Health Care – Master The Basics First

First you have to wonder how safe your dog food is from chemical contaminants that accidentally got into the food at some point in the production. Maybe basic ingredients were tainted overseas and nobody picked it up. Especially at the moment with companies all around the world looking to get more profit from less cost, we have to wonder if our dogs welfare is at risk.

How safe is your dog’s food really? It’s not uncommon for there to be chemical contaminants in human foods, which have much more strict controls.

In 2007 there was a widespread recall from over 100 dog food manufacturers after it was discovered that there was melamine (a type of plastic) in much of their dog food. It was eventually traced back to a factory in China which manufactured rice protein and wheat gluten (neither of which have any real nutritional value for a dog). So what that means is that it doesn’t matter what standards the US based company may have for their production plants if the ingredients coming into the plant are already contaminated!

Although this happened a couple of years ago, what has changed to ensure that it can’t happen again? Melamine was recently found in milk powder that was produced under human food standards. So what about the lower standards that pet foods are produced under? While it may a completely accidental, even the possibility of having toxic plastics ending up in dogs food is completely unacceptable.

I know I don’t want to pick up the paper and find out that my dog’s food has plastic in it. We are ultimately responsible for our dogs health, not just that they get the right nutrition, but to make sure that their food is free from harmful chemicals too.

Apart from the accidental chemical additives what else is your German Shepherd really eating? Commonly there’s a carcinogenic preservative called ethoxyquin in many factory made dog foods. This preservative has been banned for decades from human food due to it’s toxic side effects. Workers exposed to it exhibit a wide range of symptoms, not dissimilar to agent orange. But this toxic chemical is still being added to our dog’s food!

You won’t find it listed either, no matter how close you look. This is because fish meal when it is made gets treated with ethoxyquin, while it’s still on the boat. What this means is that fish meal might go into the food but the ingredients of the meal won’t be listed.

In some foods they promote the fact that there’s fish in there as a great source of protein and fatty acids, which is true. However if that fish is in the form of meal, then there’s a whole lot more going in than you bargained for. They could suffer from allergic reactions, cancer and liver failure. And this is something that supposed to be healthy!

For the sake of your German Shepherd it’s vital that you learn about dog health food. Commercially produced food is completely out of your control, you never really know what could be If you make your own then you can be absolutely sure that there’s no nasty chemicals and carcinogenic preservatives in your dog’s food. You can treat them to a variety of gourmet tastes and give them the very best nutrition possible.

Our dogs rely on us to provide them with the best possible food and care. To keep your best friend healthy and add years to their life, subscribe to our dog health food newsletter. You’ll find out exactly what goes into commercial dog food and how to make your own at home, cheaply and easily. Click here to subscribe http://www.dog-health-food.com

Article Source: Dog Health Food – Your German Shepherd Could Be Suffering

The uncertainty of risking the puppies’ lives and the danger of harm to the bitch, creates a large problem in their minds. Generally speaking, it is better to consult your veterinary surgeon too early rather than to delay too long as the chance of survival of mother and young will then be proportionally greater.

If surgical interference is necessary it is the fit animal which will stand the best chances, not the exhausted bitch. Any surgical action which is required should be left strictly to the veterinary surgeon; on no account should the owner attempt, or permit anyone else to attempt, delivery by the use of forceps, etc.

The first signs of parturition are restlessness, “bed-making”, and often, refusal of food. There is usually a pronounced fall in body temperature (about 98F.) twenty-four hours or so before whelping. Shivering and panting are usual, and these signs are all quite normal. Within several hours of the beginning of these symptoms actual labour will begin. The contractions of the womb or uterus will start and at this stage the bitch will show signs of periodic acute discomfort, heaving, straining and panting.

These spasms will become more frequent and sustained as the whelping process goes on. It is important to note the time when the first real labour pains (i.e., straining) are seen as much depends on the intervals between beginning of symptoms and appearance, or non-appearance, of puppies.

The first thing that is noticed in a normal whelping is the water bag, which may be seen only as a sudden expulsion of fluid, as it ruptures, or is ruptured by the bitch. If this sign has not been seen after 1 hour from time of labour it is wise to make sure that all is going well.

This can be done only by a vaginal examination with a well-scrubbed and soaped finger. Gently insert the finger into the vagina, and the puppy should be felt in the pelvic cavity, i.e., within a few inches of the vulva. Do not push or probe about if the puppy can be felt. Leave the bitch for 15-20 minutes; then, if no puppy has been born, re-examine the bitch. If the puppy has not moved further down towards the vulva, or if at the first examination no puppy or water bag could be felt, call your veterinary surgeon. These time limits are conservative; some bitches are slower than this but are nevertheless quite normal.

Generally speaking, however, the time limits stated should not be greatly exceeded. The first puppy is usually followed within 20 minutes-1 hour by the second, and so on until the whole litter has arrived. The bitch may rest for a few minutes after having, say, 2 or 3 puppies, and of course this time should not be counted when deciding how matters are going. Complications are therefore best assessed by judging the time delays involved, supplemented when necessary by gentle vaginal exploration.

One complication, uterine inertia, is seen occasionally. If this is suspected your veterinary surgeon should be informed straight away.
This takes two main forms:
(a) The bitch will go through all the routine of bed making, etc., and then, after a little abdominal discomfort, show no further signs of labour or uterine contractions. This is known as primary uterine inertia.

(b) The bitch may show signs of straining, often quite good to begin with but becoming weaker and fewer, without the appearance of the puppy. This is called secondary uterine inertia. Both these types of uterine inertia require skilled attention, which may or may not involve surgical assistance. One of the predisposing causes of uterine inertia, or “going to sleep on the job”, is over-fatness, and bitches should be kept in a fit, properly exercised state right up to the actual day of whelping. Certain medical conditions also predispose or cause this lack of uterine tone, but search for the cause and the necessary treatment should be left to the expert.

Attention to puppies

Puppies will not usually require attention from the owner of a normal bitch, who has whelped successfully by herself. However, in short-nosed breeds, e.g., Pekinese, King Charles spaniels and English Bulldogs, it is sometimes necessary to attend to the umbilical cord, if the puppy is born intact, or attached to the foetal sac (or “puppy-bag”) as the membranes in which the puppy lies when in the womb are called. The cord should be tied off about a quarter to half inch from the puppy’s navel with sterile cotton (i.e., boiled cotton) and the membrane or “bag” side of the cord cut with sterilised scissors. The stump should then be dabbed with tincture of iodine.

Lifeless puppies

Occasionally a puppy that has been delayed in birth does not gasp when born. The mouth should be opened with a finger and the spine given a brisk rubbing with a dry towel. A little cold water on the nape of the neck will help to stimulate a reflex inspiration. If mucus is in the mouth wipe this away with a little moistened cotton wool and blow sharply into the opened mouth. A drop of brandy on the tongue will also produce a reflex inhalation and is a useful stimulant for a weakly pup. When the puppy is breathing regularly, but not before, place him on a towel or blanket, near a hot water-bottle. A drop of brandy may be given every 20-30 minutes until he can be suckled by the bitch.

Discover a lot more about keeping your dog healthy at dog health

Article Source: Dog Health – A Look At Whelping

Contaminated dog food can be in circulation for months before it gets picked up, and often it’s only when there’s a number of dogs getting sick and dying from the food that a recall is issued. Often quality is being sacrificed for the sake of profits.

In a bid to increase profits, many dog food manufacturers are using cheap by products from human food production and adding it as a protein source. This is can do your dog a lot of harm over the long term, leading to allergies and other chronic health issues.

In 2007, over 100 different types of dog food were recalled after melamine, which is a type of plastic, was found in many batches. Eventually the food was found to be tainted from imported rice protein. There are large questions about whether there is really any nutritional value in rice protein for dogs in the first place. But what this really means is that there is a chance that anything could end up in our dog food.

You may be thinking that this happened in China so I won’t affect you, but many companies around the world are using imported ingredients from China and other countries that don’t have the same regulation of their food products that we do in the western world. When you think about the tainted milk powder that was found recently, it’s only a matter of time before another batch of deadly food gets onto the market.

Even if there’s no accidental contamination, your Beagle could still be at risk from additives that are put into the dog food, before it reaches the factory. Ethoxyquin is routinely added to fish meal. Fish meal is then often promoted as a healthy form of protein. However they neglect to mention that ethoxyquin has been linked to serious allergic reactions, cancer and liver failure in dogs. And that it has been banned for human consumption for decades.

So have a quick look and see if your dog food has fish meal in it. And be aware that if it does then your dog is almost certainly getting a dose of a known carcinogen with every meal.

For the sake of your Beagle and it’s long term health, you really need to get educated about dog health food. It is our responsibility to know what is going into our dog’s food and to make sure that there are no toxic additives. or preservatives. We all want our best friend’s to live a long and healthy life and it’s not hard with a bit of knowledge.

How would you feel if your dog died at a young age and it was completely preventable? We need to know what goes into the food that we feed our dogs and if it’s making them sick. Our dog health food newsletter is chock full of tips for healthy eating, delicious recipes and information about what really goes into commercial dog food. Click here to subscribe http://www.dog-health-food.com

Article Source: Dog Health Food – Don’t Let Your Beagle Suffer From The Wrong Food

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This incessant itching can highly be an early symptom of dermatitis. Dermatitis is similar to fever in human beings. When we have fever, we just start sneezing like crazy or have congestion. But in case of dogs, their skin becomes itchy and they keep on scratching their skin. Fever in dogs happens generally when they inhale a large amount of pollen.

If you notice, you will see that your dog starts itching more during the months of August and September. This is a time when you need to take extra care of your beloved pet. Pets become especially sensitive to things around them during these months. Thus, this is the time when you have to look out for Dermatitis because your dog will be highly susceptible to it.

The other months when your dog will start itching indiscriminately are March and April. Since these two are the pollen months, dogs become very likely to catch hold of Dermatitis during this season. The grass pollen season of May, June and early July are also particularly troublesome months.

This dog health symptom is something that affects your dog particularly badly. Once your dog gets affected by Dermatitis, it will practically suffer from scratching problems throughout the year. This gives rise to another problem of increased sensitivity which means that something like dusting your sofa will also make your dog uncomfortable and scratchy.

The owners who have a dog who is less than six months old are lucky because young dogs do not get Dermatitis. It is a disease seen in dogs that are three or more years of age. Also, almost every breed of dog can get Dermatitis as it is not a breed specific disease.

However, despite of not being a breed specific disease, Dermatitis is something that affects certain breeds of dogs, like Dalmatians, West Highland White Terriers, White Haired Fox Terriers and Poodles particularly badly. Dermatitis is something that should be treated immediately because it can make your dog suffer a lot and live in great discomfort.

As for the treatments of Dermatitis, you must consult your dog’s vet. There are multiple treatments available but you have to choose one that suits your dog’s breed and age, so it is best to go for whatever your dog’s vet suggests.

Apart from the treatment, you also need to take care of the fact that your dog gets regular grooming so that its skin remains in perfect condition. If your dog is not groomed regularly, it might suffer from skin problems that are extremely uncomfortable.

Article by Kelly Marshall of www.ohmydogsupplies.com – the place to find free shipping on dog toys in over 100 different models

Article Source: Dog Health Symptom: Does Your Dog Itch Like Crazy But Has no Parasites?