Edie MacKenzie On Dogs

Archive for the ‘Puppy Training’ Category

“Come” is a command every puppy needs respect. Here again, control is essential. When you say “Come,” the puppy must have no alternative. Consistency in your conditioning is imperative, for once the puppy realizes he does not have to come, your troubles begin! The come is taught using a puppy collar and a twenty-five-foot line.

1. When you first put your puppy out in the yard on his line, the very first time, allow him to explore until he seems to be getting tired.

2. At that point, kneel and say “Come” and give the line a small, sharp tug. The tug will turn the puppy toward you. He may then:

a) Come – If he does this, really love, cuddle and praise him. Pick him up and carry him into the house and give him a tiny tidbit.
B) Turn and sit – If he does this, continue to give gentle little tugs, along with lots of verbal encouragement, until he gets to you. Then praise as if he had come on his own.
b) Buck and holler at the end of the line – If he does this, sit quietly until he quits (sometimes it takes a while). Then give another “Come” and tug the line again. Repeat – even if it takes fifty waits, fifty “comes,” and fifty tugs. When he reaches you, love him and praise him as if he had come on the first call, on his own.
c) Sulk, roll over on his back, wrap his feet around the line and say, “No way, Jose!” – If he does this, stay calm, wait until he freezes in some position, then repeat “come,” and give a tug on the line. If he repeats his previous actions, repeat yours. When he finally comes to you, reward him and praise him as if he had come the first time. As you pick your puppy up and carry him into the house, you may tell him anything as long as your voice is happy – you have won – no matter how long it has taken you!

Always remember, the only way you can lose a come battle is to lose your temper. Once you do that the puppy has won because you have given him something to react to. He will know he has upset you and that little piece of information will get stored in his memory bank. So, stay cool!

3. Take the puppy on a twenty-minute walk. Let him go to the end of the line and sniff and snuffle to his heart’s content.

4. Four times during that walk – when he is on the end of the line – say “Come” and snap the line toward you and run away from the puppy. When he “catches” up with you, get down to his level and love him, praise him and reward him!

6. Try to take another walk, later on in the day, in a different area and repeat the four calls.

If you use these exercises on the come daily, both at home and on walks, the puppy will grow up knowing that “come” means a problem for him when he remains where he is and does not come, and that safety and praise are his when he does come. Later on, when your puppy is truly free to choose, if you have been consistent, he will choose you.

Be aware of the weather when taking your puppy to the potty area. If you get a puppy in winter, remember that it will be a little harder on you and your puppy. Dress warmly so you don’t lose your patience if the puppy takes longer to relieve herself.

If you bring your puppy in too soon because you are getting cold and uncomfortable, she may urinate once you bring her into the warmth of your house.

In winter, it is also advisable for owners to put a wind-proof, doggie jacket on their puppies. This way they can stay warm and not have an aversion to being outdoors.

In the fall and spring, the earth is moist and the ground rich with odors. Your puppy will be distracted by the rich scents and she may take longer to relieve herself.

Rainy weather is also a challenge for pups. The rain may alarm them at first and distract them from the familiar scent in their potty area. Snow has the same affect. Be patient under these conditions.

You can begin some elementary retrieving exercises at eight weeks or so, and your Labrador Retriever will most likely love the game and look forward to it each day. To teach the basic mechanics of the fetch (run out, pick up the object, return the object to the master, and release), begin by placing the puppy on a 10-foot lead.

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Take a favorite toy or a ball large enough not to be swallowed, dangle it in front and above the dog’s head to gain its attention, and toss it 5 to 6 feet in front of you. Precede your command with your dog’s name. For example, say, “Jake, fetch!” As he races for the toy, follow behind your Labrador Retriever.

Make sure the lead stays loose and does not snap shut and frighten or hurt him (and perhaps permanently sour him on retrieving).

If he picks up the toy, praise him encouragingly. Should he merely eye or paw the toy, make him pick it up by shaking it in front of him, repeating “Jake, fetch!” Once he has grasped the toy, walk backwards to your beginning spot. Coax him to follow you by motioning him toward you using your hands and fingers.

When he arrives back, get the toy from his mouth by commanding “Out!” and gently pulling it loose. Now is the time to give him a lot of praise and affection – not during the exercise, although encouragement can be helpful.

At such a young age, the emphasis in this and all types of exercise is on fun, not on performance. Improvement in response should naturally come with familiarity. As the puppy masters the game, vary it. Keep your Labrador Retriever guessing.

Try to remain in position and not move out toward the toy. Later, you can attach a longer lead and extend the distance of your throw, or throw the toy sideways. Any Labrador retriever worth its name will take easily and eagerly to this game.

It is recommended that you play with the Labrador Retriever puppy often and consciously make an effort to get down to its level. Standing upright, humans can be quite an imposing sight for a puppy. Sitting or lying on the floor, they are no longer towers but friendly companions. Giving a puppy some eye-to-eye attention will go a long way in cementing the human-dog bond.

Because a Labrador retriever make good swimmers as adults, some misinformed people think this gives them the liberty to dunk young puppies into any available pool of water. A Labrador Retriever is a natural swimmer, but the dog needs to learn the fundamentals before being expected to feel at ease in the water.

When a Labrador Retriever puppy’s first exposure to the water is being thrown or forced in, the shock may make it dislike and fear the water throughout life. Many potential field dogs have been ruined by improper or overzealous training.

The first introduction to the water can begin while a puppy is quite young (three months is a good age). A puppy should be able to master the mechanics very quickly, especially if “shown
the ropes” by some older dogs. The owner should always be nearby, should trouble arise. It often helps the dog feel at ease if the owner wades into the water with it on the first dip.

Ponds or lakes, with their easy entries, are best for training water dogs. The slick tiles and steep sides of a pool are often unmanageable for the dog, and many drownings have occurred when an exhausted dog was unable to climb out of the water. Similarly, a young Labrador Retriever puppy is not strong enough to manage a rough ocean surf, but should be encouraged to play along the shoreline in a sheltered area of shallow water.

Socialization and training your Dalmatian puppy need to start the very day of his arrival in your home.  You should not address him without calling him by his name.  A short, simple name is the easiest to teach because it catches the puppy’s attention quickly, so avoid giving him elaborate names.  Always address the pup by the same name, not a whole series of pet names because the latter will only confuse your puppy.  Say his name clearly, and call him over to you when you see him awake and wandering about.  When he comes, make a big fuss over him for being such a good dog.  He will then quickly associate the sound of his name with coming to you and a pleasant experience.

It is not too soon to start familiarizing him to the feel of a light collar, which can start as early as several hours after his arrival.  Chances are he may hardly notice it or he may struggle, roll over, and try to rub it off his neck with his paws.  You can divert his attention when this happens by offering a tasty treat, a toy, or by petting him.  Before long he will accept the strange feeling around his neck and will no longer be aware of it.

Next is the lead; attach it and then immediately take the puppy outside or try to redirect his attention with things to see and sniff.  He may struggle against the lead at first, biting at it and trying to free himself.  Do not pull him with it at this point; just hold the end loosely and try to follow him if he starts off in any direction.  Normally his attention will soon turn to investigating his surroundings if he is outside or if is taken into an unfamiliar room in your house; curiosity will take over and he will become interested in sniffing around the surroundings.  Just follow your Dalmatian with the lead slackly held until he seems to have completely forgotten about it; and then try to get him to follow you.

Do not be rough or jerk at him; just tug gently on the lead in short quick motions, repeating his name or trying to get your Dalmatian to follow your hand while holding a bite of food or a favorite toy.  If you have an older lead-trained dog, then it should be easier to get your Dalmatian puppy to follow along after him.  In any case, the average Dalmatian puppy learns quite quickly and will soon be walking along nicely on the lead.

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Click Here Now – -and watch Chet’s Free Dog Training Video.

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The moment you decide to own a Dalmatian puppy, you need to start planning for his arrival in your home.  Both you and your new family member will find the transition period much easier if your home is properly equip in advance of the arrival.

One of the first thing you need to prepare for the arrival of your new Dalmatian puppy is a crate.  Every Dalmatian should have a crate of his own from the very beginning, one  that he will come to know and love as his special place where he is comfortable and safe.

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Click Here Now – -and watch Chet’s Free Dog Training Video.

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The crate will provide an ideal setting; when you want him to be free, you can just leave the crate open.  Otherwise, you can securely latch it and know that the Dalmatian pup is safely out of trouble.  Also, if you travel with him, his crate can fit nicely in the car.  A crate therefore is a very sensible and sound investment in your puppy’s future safety and happiness and for your own peace of mind.

The crates that are most preferred are the wooden ones with removable side panels, which are ideal for cold weather where the panels in place to keep out drafts and in hot weather where the panels are removed to allow better air circulation.  Wire crates are all suitable in the summer, but they give no protection from cold or drafts.  Aluminum crates, due to the manner in which the metal reflects surrounding temperatures, are not recommended.  If it is cold, so is the metal of the crate; if it is hot, the crate becomes very hot.

When you choose the puppy’s crate, make sure that it is roomy enough not to be outgrown. The crate should have sufficient height so the dog can stand up in it as he gets older and sufficient area so that he can stretch out full length when relaxed.  When the puppy is young, you can give him shredded newspaper to use as a bed; the papers can be replaced with a mat or towels when the dog is older.

Carpet remnants are great for the bottom of the crate because they are inexpensive and can be easily replaced in case of accidents. As the dog matures and is past the chewing age, a pillow or blanket in the crate can provide warm and comfort.

If you live in an apartment , a baby’s playpen for your Dalmatian puppy works great.  For an older Dalmatian puppy use a portable exercise pen which you can use later when traveling with your dog or for dog shows.  If you have a yard or an area where he can be outside in safety, it should be fenced in prior to the dog’s arrival. This area does not need to be huge, but it does need to be made safe and secure.

If you live in a suburban area where there are close neighbors, stockade fencing works out best.  If you are out in the country where no problems with neighbors are likely to occur, then regular chain-link fencing is fine.  For added precaution in both cases, use concrete blocks or railroad ties inside against the entire bottom of the fence; this reduces the chance of your Dalmatian digging his way out.