Edie MacKenzie On Dogs

Archive for June, 2009

Some dogs just absolutely refuse to become house trained. No matter how long and hard you have tried to implement techniques to get your dog to use the bathroom in the proper areas, he still chooses to be “vengeful” towards you by not following your instructions, right?

Wrong! The common misconception that your dog is trying to be vindictive and countermine your housetraining efforts by refusing to follow the rules is a complete myth.

Dogs only have the capacity for simple, direct emotions, such as being happy, sad, or scared. Their minds are not capable of plotting ways to seek revenge for that swat on his rear, or how you scolded him an hour ago.

Dogs do, however, remember and draw upon past experiences that they associate with current situations. But it is important to understand that these associations only create an emotion in which they will feel when going through a similar experience.

In other words, lets say that you punish your dog for urinating on the front porch. If you continue to scold him for this behavior then eventually your dog will become fearful of using the bathroom outside. All he knows is that he is “outside”, not on the front porch. Your efforts will countermine your housetraining goals.

For this reason alone, it is important never to punish or yell at your dog when he uses the bathroom inside the house. Most housetraining problems actually stem from owners who completely instill fear in their pets when they go potty on the floor. This creates enough trauma to completely halt all of your housetraining efforts.

The key is trying not to react. Instead, remove your dog from the room and take him outside in a very calm and relaxed manner. Be sure that he does not see you cleaning up his mess. Quietly clean the area and be sure to use an enzyme-containing house cleaner. Vinegar or liquid soap will do just fine as well. By completely removing all of the older, this helps reduce your dog’s need to urinate and mark the same spot over and over.

Tip: Avoid using ammonia because the smell is very similar to that of a dog’s urine and can stimulate him to pee in the same area.

When all else fails, schedule a visit with your veterinarian so that the doctor can do a complete health checkup of your dog to make sure that there is not a health-related reason for his inability to become house trained.

Some dogs can be harboring illnesses that may prove to be the cause of not having the ability to control their bowel movements. Such illnesses could be caused by ticks, such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, or the most common reason: a urinary tract infection.

Knowing how to behave properly when around other dogs represents a skill vital for any canine to enjoy his venture beyond his own yard. However, this aspect of socialization harbors more serious risks than meeting people. Dogs possess a defined set of rules in greeting each other, and though most adults grant leeway for ill-mannered puppies, not all do.

For this reason, puppy kindergarten classes provides the safest venue for socializing your puppy around other dogs. Kindergarten restricts classes to puppies who have completed vaccinations and helps owners train basic manners. A good class recognizes the value of letting puppies interact.

Also important, but not always part of every puppy class, is the inclusion of structured play sessions. Many puppy classes allow general playtime with all the puppies turned loose at once. This frequently results in smaller or timid puppies getting “beat up” by larger or more dominant pups. Because unpleasant encounters can initiate fear or aggression toward other dogs, find a class where the instructor supervises all puppy interaction.

Look for kindergarten classes at training clubs or private trainers via your local phone directory under “pets” or “dog training”. Your potential instructor should have experience in teaching assorted breeds from the various groups. Ask if they use treats, toys, praise and play to encourage canine cooperation rather than forcing compliance. It is best to observe a class in progress. If both people and puppies appear to be doing well and having fun, consider signing up.

As mentioned, not all dogs look kindly on puppies. If your kindergarten class takes place at a busy training club, keep your pup away from dogs that are not in your group. Ignore the often heard assurance of “Oh, he’s friendly” unless it comes from your instructor. A well-meaning but misguided student from another class may offer this statement before understanding exactly how their dog feels about puppies.

“Monsters” That Your Dog May Have To Deal With

A few years ago, when walking one of my young dogs along a city sidewalk in my brother’s neighborhood, my dog stopped dead, staring nervously ahead. Following her gaze, I realized she had spotted a potential monster: a fire hydrant.

Though I have always worked hard to socialize my dogs well, Cocoa, my Ibizan Hound, was cautious in nature and country living had excluded a prior encounter with this common city fixture.

Knowing Cocoa would largely key off my own reaction, I “kidded” her about being silly and walked another route. After crossing the street, we again headed in the “monster’s” direction, but this time there was a street width between us. As Cocoa started eyeing the hydrant, I pretended to be oblivious, chatting happily to her until well past it. On the way back, she was fine.

Later, I decided to see how she would respond if we again walked on the side where the monster lay in wait. This time I armed myself with some treats. When we neared the spot where she first noticed the hydrant, I started talking cheerfully and gave her a few goodies. This distracted her from worrying and assured her I had no concerns.

Within a minute or two, we were beyond the hydrant. She gave a short backward glance to make sure it wasn’t following us, but paid it little mind on our return trip.

The point of the story is that you should expect odd or unfamiliar objects to alarm your puppy or young dog. And when they do, don’t soothe him with a pat on the back to make him feel better. He’ll take this as a reward for being afraid. Instead, work to face the “danger” head on so in time he becomes used to whatever it is that was scaring him in the first place.

Dogs that lead a very active lifestyle demand a more comprehensive diet than average dogs require. Examples of these hard-working dogs are those that participate in agility competitions as well as those that team up with law enforcement on a search-and-rescue mission.

These dogs require nutritional needs that are different from an average household pet. Most of these sporting and working dogs participate in intermediate activities as well. These are activities that require low to moderate duration and intensity. Examples include: Competition or agility, service, search and rescue, tracking or hunting, police or guarding, detection, and even managing livestock.

Essential Nutrients For Your Busy Canine Athlete

Because your dog is always on the go, you need to provide him with larger doses of food and certain types of nutrients. This is especially important in times when they are most active. A typical working dog would need about 2 ? 5 times more calories than a sedentary dog. These extra calories are converted into energy that helps our canine athletes perform better.

Below are four key nutrients for busy dogs.

1. Carbohydrate: Once your dog reaches adulthood, he has no need for carbohydrates in his diet, although he is able to absorb this nutrient if eaten. Less carbohydrates in the adult dog’s diet creates better performance. Therefore, minimum amount of carbohydrates is required for the working dog or any dog that participates in any kind of activity that lasts for more than two minutes.

2. Protein: Protein contains amino acids, which are the building blocks for hormones, tissues, and enzymes. This nutrient provides energy and helps develop muscle mass for extra size and strength. Keep in mind, however, that too much protein in your dog’s diet can lead to excessive protein breakdown. A busy dog should have a diet that includes high-quality protein, enough to provide for muscle and structural repair.

3. Fats: The main source of energy for intermediate athletic dogs comes from fats. This nutrient contains about twice as much energy as carbohydrates and protein provides. Adding more fat to your dog’s diet is the best way to increase his energy and strength. A diet high in fat is more appealing to your dog while at the same time providing him with better endurance. Therefore, it is very important to supply him with adequate amount of essential fatty acids along with saturated and unsaturated fats.

4. Water: A hard-working dog normally loses more water during laborious activity so it is very important to provide him with an ample supply of water to keep him hydrated. This is even more important when your dog is under extreme temperatures (both hot and cold weather).

Naturally, not every puppy comes from responsible beginnings. For the shelter puppy, one from a rescue group, or perhaps even a stray from completely unknown origins, your immediate attention to socialization can work wonders. This is the moments of your puppy’s life that can make or break his behavior and reaction to the outside world (as well as inside the house), for years to come.

However, keep in mind that, whether a few weeks or a few months old, coming home with you is a scary experience for a puppy. Give him a few days to adapt before taking him anywhere else.

Home soon provides a wonderful, secure environment for beginning socialization. The television, radio, blender and other appliances prepare your puppy for “strange” noises he may encounter later. Allowing him on different floorings, like vinyl, tile, wood and carpet, readies him for walking at the veterinarian’s office, pet supply store, friend’s homes, and more.

Of course every puppy is an individual and this fact greatly affects how you socialize your particular canine. Study your new addition, noting how he approaches unfamiliar objects and scenarios. A bold, fearless puppy frequently requires redirection to prevent him from jumping in headfirst, while a slightly timid or cautious youngster might need encouragement even in perfectly safe situations.

Professional trainers suggest that when your puppy shows hesitation towards something, don’t baby him. For instance, if your pup dislikes the slippery feel of vinyl, place a few pieces in or near his play area during supervised times. As you interact with him, purposefully disregard it when he “accidentally” places a foot on the vinyl. Your matter-of-fact attitude helps allay his concerns.

Alternatively, you can try throwing a favorite toy or treats onto the vinyl floor, enough so your pup’s feet make contact. This places his focus on having fun rather than worrying where he steps. As his confidence grows, sitting yourself on the vinyl floor further helps him forget his fears in order to join his favorite person.

These examples of positive, non-force methods illustrates how giving your puppy the time he needs builds confidence in his own abilities. Conversely, forcing a dog to confront and deal with something he is uncomfortable with, often called “flooding”, can be successful, but much depends on the dog, the issue, and application of the method. Done incorrectly, fears increase rather than decrease. For other than experienced trainers, positive works best.

Some medications cause a dog to drink more and thus produce such copious amounts of urine that the dog can’t wait as long between outdoor breaks or leaks while relaxed. If wetting accidents occur shortly after a dog starts a new medicine, double-check with your veterinarian to see if increased thirst or urination are side effects.

Warning: Don’t abruptly halt the use of a medication without first consulting your dog’s veterinarian. Abrupt cessation could be dangerous.

The most commonly used medications that cause these side effects include:

1) Cortisone-type Medications

This includes prednisone. Veterinarians routinely use cortisones for their anti-allergy and anti-inflammatory effects in a wide variety of conditions. Injectable, oral and topical cortisones such as ear medications or eye drops can cause increased thirst and urination.

2) Phenobarbital

This is the most commonly used anti-seizure medication in veterinary medicine. Side effects may be either temporary or permanent. There has been almost a 90% decrease in urination problems once this medication was stopped. But if your dog must have it to stop seizures then the house-wetting is just something you will have to live with.

3) Thyroid Supplements

If a dog receives more thyroid replacement than needed (their requirements may actually change over time), the dog may experience increased thirst and urination, as well as other side effects, such as GI upset (gastrointestinal), vomiting and/or diarrhea, hyperactivity, restlessness, or weight loss.

How To Take The Correct Steps

Obtaining the accurate diagnosis is an important factor for a successful outcome, regardless of the reason for your dog’s soiling in the house. Treatment and prognosis depend, of course, upon the cause of inappropriate elimination and how severely affected the dog is. Sometimes, finding and addressing the cause is pretty simple and straightforward; other times, it can be challenging and take some time.

The bottom line: If your puppy’s housetraining isn’t going as it should or your adult dog has begun having repeat accidents, before you begin remedial housetraining, check with your veterinarian to make sure there is nothing medically wrong with your pooch.

What will your dog’s veterinarian look for if you come to him or her with a housetraining complaint? A thorough examination and history and checking of a fecal sample. With a young dog, your veterinarian might not do blood work or urinalysis right away unless there are other abnormal signs.