Archive for June, 2009
Housetraining: The 3 Most Common Reasons Why Your Dog Is Having Trouble
Housetraining your dog quickly and easily can only be done by understanding what is causing him to use the bathroom inside the house in the first place. Many times the issues are not what they seem, and in fact the problems are typically connected to behavioral reasons.
Dogs can eliminate inappropriately for a number of behavior-based reasons. However, clinical signs vary for these types of issues and are not always distinguishable between medical problems or housetraining relapses.
For example, urine found on upright objects or in a place out of sight of the owner suggests an intentional marking of a surface. Urine found only in a bed at night could suggest unintentional incontinence, although there are plenty of dogs that make a point of urinating on their beds. And diarrhea could be from a physiological problem but could also be from internal stress in the animal.
A recent poll taken from experts in canine behavior problems around the country, identified the following tips as the most common causes of behavioral elimination:
1) Submissive & Excitement Urination
Submissive and excitement urination may not be under the dog’s control as it is a reaction to a social stimulus. There are lots of submissive and excitement urination in dogs younger than 1 year of age. With this behavior, dogs tend to dribble or wet when their owners come home, when they’re scolded or petted, or in the presence of other dogs.
2) Territorial Marking
Territory marking in the house occurs most often in intact (unneutered) male dogs older than six months of age, although spayed females and neutered males sometimes exhibit this behavior.
Usually, areas are marked with small squirts of urine (seldom feces) in response to a need to claim or reaffirm a territory in the presence of other dogs (including neighborhood dogs and cats seen through a window) or involving household changes (like a new baby or a new spouse).
3) Anxiety
Arousal or increased activity of the dog caused by anxiety can bring about defecation and urination. Dogs with separation anxiety may eliminate with regularity whenever the person to whom the dog is attached is physically separated from the dog.
Fear of noises, novel objects outside or an attack by another animal outside can cause a dog to refuse to go outdoors to eliminate. Some dogs refuse to leave the porch if it is raining or snowing, thus not eliminating when given the opportunity. Some dogs refuse to go in the presence of the owner.
Puppy Socialization: Introduce Your Dog To The World!
New puppies soak up information and experiences like a sponge – especially those between the ages of 8 to 12 weeks. This is the ideal time to get your pup out into the open and absorbing positive experiences to help with his socialization.
Say Hello To The Neighbors
Your neighbors and friends are all dying to meet your new precocious pooch. By all means, take your puppy for a walk around the neighborhood. He’ll learn to walk on a loose leash and run into new people and situations. The faster you can introduce your puppy to leash walking the better. That way they see the world on their own four paws, so to speak.
Ask people to meet to gently pet and feed a treat to your pup. Limit interactions to cordial children, good-natured dogs, and responsible adults. It teaches the pup that strangers are good people.
Be careful, though. Until your pup’s immune system has been cranked up by his third set of vaccinations (at 16 to 20 weeks) he’ll be vulnerable to diseases, some potentially deadly.
Another great way to expand your puppy’s circle of friends without making a big scene is to invite a few select dog-savvy adults and children over to greet your puppy. Keep everything low-key and nurturing ? no running, squealing, teasing, tussling or poking. Provide treats liberally.
Field Trips Are Great
From the time you get your puppy until he’s about 16 weeks old, socialization is a high priority. Socialization simply means introducing your puppy to new people, places, experiences and other dogs in a positive way. Well-socialized pups grow up to be happy, well-mannered adults.
Keep in mind that your pup’s sociability and outlook depend on a lot of factors. For instance, recent worming or vaccinations, cutting teeth and a recent, long airplane flight can make your pup tired and grumpy. Exposing your pup to too much at these times can cause him to be overwhelmed and taxed rather than enriched by the experience.
Take your puppy to places where dogs are welcome (don’t forget to bring your cleanup supplies). Try to do five to seven new things each week, like experience stairs, bicycles, people with facial hair or glasses, garbage cans, loud noises, new walking surfaces and work trucks, etc. It’s also a great time to introduce your pup to a grooming routine.
And even when your puppy is older than 16 weeks, it’s still a good idea to continue to actively socialize him until he reaches 12 months of age.
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Special Diets For Dogs: The Overweight Dog
“Should I put my dog on a diet?”
The answer to that question is Yes, but only if your veterinarian recommends it. The same care, consideration, and advice should be taken when your dog needs to be put on a special diet program, as you yourself would get from your personal physician if you were put on a diet. You cannot diet your dog properly without expert advice, and in this case, as in most problems with animals, your pet’s best friend is always his veterinarian.
Your veterinarian has at his disposal many compounded special diets. There is one for the overweight dog as well as the dog with heart trouble or kidney disease. Manufacturers also supply him with prescription dietary foods for puppies, pregnant dogs, the allergic dog, and dogs with intestinal upsets.
There are dry, as well as canned, diet foods. The canned foods come in various sizes to meet the needs of the small dog and the large dog. Your pet’s doctor may recommend mixing several foods together. Special diets are often fortified with mineral and vitamin supplements. So if your veterinarian suggests that you put your dog on a dietary program, you know that he will be getting the best nutrition possible.
The Overweight Dog
Now let’s look at the most common reason why a diet is typically instructed by the veterinarian: the overweight dog. There are no “crash diets” for the obese dog. If your dog is overweight, you are the one who is responsible for it. The overweight dog is very much like a fat person. He is short of breath and is often called a lazy dog. Exercising is just too much for him. All the energy he can muster is used carrying that extra weight.
One also must remember that it is the fat on the inside of the animal that causes the most trouble. The last time I spoke to a veterinarian about this issue, he explained to me what excess fat can do to the body. There may be fatty tissue surrounding the heart, the lungs, or the digestive tract which could cause these organs not to function properly.
The overweight dog needs low-calorie food for weight reduction. Your veterinarian will weigh your pet and determine how much he needs to lose. He will then prescribe the amount and type of dietary food he needs. Your full cooperation is needed if the diet program is to be a success. Do not feed him snacks in between his allotted meals, or any tidbits from the table for that matter.
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Nutrition For Active Dogs – Supplements To Help Your Working Dog
Even the best commercial dog foods available on the market today do not contain all of the ingredients that are necessary to sustain the nutritional needs of your working dog.
Active dogs need an extra boost of nutrition to support their busy lifestyle. A good example of their diet should contain a high-quality meal consisting of 40% – 45% fats and close to 50% protein.
In addition, active dogs should take extra supplements. Below is a list of four supplements to add to your dog’s diet.
Antioxidants: Regular, intense exercise increases the amount of free radicals and oxidative damage in the body. That is why it is beneficial to provide your dog with a daily dose of antioxidants.
Antioxidants are necessary to every dog’s diet, especially if you have an active dog. The power of antioxidants works to block the harmful effects of free radicals, therefore reducing their numbers. Antioxidants are also said to help strengthen blood vessel walls and improve circulation.
Antioxidants are acquired by eating fruits and vegetables that are rich in colors. Some examples are grapefruits, grapes, broccoli, peas, carrots, and dark green vegetables. If your dog is not into eating fruits and vegetables, he can still obtain antioxidants by taking supplements.
Most supplements also include vitamins C and E, flavonoids, and carotenoids such as lycopene, beta-carotene, and lutein. Some even contain amino acids, the building blocks of cells. Dosage will vary according to your dog’s weight.
Vitamins And Minerals: Increased exercise demands more vitamin C and B-complex. Vitamin C combats stress and helps support the immune system, while B-complex vitamins promote healthy skin, muscles, and blood.
Fruits and vegetables, as well as organ meats (kidney and liver), are high in vitamins and minerals. But for finicky dogs, you may need to give them vitamin and mineral supplements in chewable tablet form. Small dogs should take 50 mg of Vitamin C per day and 500 mg for large dogs. B-complex vitamins should contain 4-5 mg of niacin for a dog weighing 35 lb.
Probiotics And Enzymes: Probiotics and digestive enzymes aid in proper food digestion. They also prevent your dog from acquiring stress-related stomach problems such as diarrhea and nervous vomiting. These two supplements are best when given in tablet form.
Omega-3 Fatty Acids: These essential fatty acids have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, Omega-3 fatty acids prevent and cure skin problems and decrease arthritic stiffness in dogs. Excellent sources of Omega-3 include cod liver oil, fish oil, flaxseed oil, and animal sources.