Dog crouches with front legs extended, rear up, and head near the ground: This is the classic play-bow and means simply “I want to play!”

Stiff-legged, upright posture or slow, stiff-legged movement forward: “I am in charge around here!” and “I challenge you.” A dominant dog will use this posture to indicate assertion of authority and a willingness to fight for it.

Body slightly sloped forward, feet braced: “I accept your challenge and am ready to fight!”

Dog rolls on side or exposes underside: “Let us not argue” or “I am not a threat to you” or “I accept that you are in charge here.” This is a submissive response to avert conflict. Many dogs adopt this posture in a fairly relaxed and contented manner when they are around their pack leader. When your dog rolls on his back for a belly rub, he is actually accepting you as leader of the pack.

Dog places head on another dog’s shoulder or places paw on the back of another dog: “I want you to know who is the boss around here.” These gestures are commonly used by dominant dogs, pack leaders, and dogs that have aspirations of becoming a pack leader.

Mouthing: This shows up in dog-human interactions as the dog taking the handler’s hand in his mouth or, while walking, taking the lead in the mouth. Mouthing can be a serious sign of dominance challenging and shows that the dog does not accept the human as pack leader.

Dog places paw on master’s knee: “Look, I am here” or “Pay attention to me.” This attention-seeking signal has many variations. They include pawing the air in front of their master or sliding the head under the master’s hand.

Hair bristles on back and shoulders: This is a sign of anticipated aggression. A ridge of hair bristling down the back is a sign that says “Do not push me, I am angry!” When the bristling extends to the shoulders it means “I have had it with you” and is a sign of an imminent attack.

Dog sits with one front paw slightly raised: This is another sign of stress but is combined with insecurity. It means “I am anxious, uneasy and concerned.”

Dog rolls on his back and rubs it on the ground: This is sometimes preceded by nose rubbing where the dog pushes his face, and possibly his chest against the ground in a rubbing motion or rubs the face with a forepaw, from eyes to nose. They often follow feeding or occur as the dog’s owner begins to prepare food. However they also can occur following or in anticipation of other pleasant activities.

Scraping the ground and ripping the turf with the paws: This is usually after the dog has defecated but may occur at other times. Dogs have glands on the bottom of their feet that provide each with a unique scent. What a dog is saying here is ” I was here and I am leaving my calling card!”

If scolded or punished, these dogs react by coming back for more. Though their dog does not develop problems of aggression, submissive wetting or self-mutilation, the owners would like to curtail the pestering while preserving the pet’s generally pleasant personality and behavior.

The following 2-step process usually meets these objectives. It does not use punishment or scolding, yet curtails the pestering behavior.

1. Command the dog to Sit (praise). Down (praise). Sit (praise) and Down (praise), then release it after 4 commands. Do this until all 4 responses are performed quickly (within 5 seconds for small and medium-sized breeds, 7-8 seconds for large breeds).

2. Whenever the dog begins pestering, the target person initiates the sequence of 4 commands, as outlined. If a set of 4 commands does not calm the pet, the commands should be continued until the dog noticeably slows down in executing them, then it may be released.

A lovely greyhound named Bronze fit the bill. Just several days later Bronze was welcomed with loving arms in his new home.

Bronze didn’t know a lot of small things right away, such as how to climb up steps or comprehend a see-through glass door and windows, etc. He did not know how to play and was very weary of people, particularly very tall, thin males. And something also peculiar – he was literally afraid of his own shadow!

Any of these things caused fear in Bronze, and the resulting behavior was aggression, snarling and growling. Angelica was worried that his behavior would go beyond this reaction, leading into biting or attacking.

Soon Bronze showed fear towards another specific occurrence: Anytime Angela’s brother would come to visit, and wearing his usual leather jacket and ball cap, Bronze would again start his aggressive stance and snarling. The same thing happened when Angela’s sons would come home with their noisy friends.

The Cause Of Bronze’s Fear

As you know, Bronze was an ex-race dog, so once Angela was able to contact a canine psychologist, the doctor was able to identify the problem right away. He had asked Angela to obtain a picture of the dog’s ex-trainer, which turned out to be a very tall, skinny man that wore a long black coat, along with a specific hat that resembled a baseball cap.

Add to this evidence the obvious experiences of the dog having raced at the track: lots of noisy people, confinement, guns firing, running, more confinement, lots of harsh training commands from his trainer – it was no wonder why Bronze reacted the way he did when he was adopted.

Managing these issues was not going to be an easy task. It required Angela to have constant vigilance. The doctor instructed her to remove the noisy teenagers from his presence, teaching Angela to be cautious of how she gave commands to Bronze, as well as have her brother remove his black leather jacket and ball cap when visiting.

In time, Bronze was able to calm down and within 12 months was less afraid of noise and the appearance of any man that resembled his past trainer became less of a threat. Bronze lived to be thirteen years old and because of his new owner’s love and care to learn to communicate, he was a lucky dog – one that enjoyed the right that every canine has – to be loved and included in a real family.

What You Can Learn From This Story

If you are also considering bringing home an adult dog that has had a history of competing in sports, such as a racing dog, for example, then prepare yourself by taking lessons from the above story. It will not only teach you how to communicate with your problem dog, but could also save him or her from being sentenced to a lonely life inside of the pound.

The Bouvier des Flandres was developed in Belgium in the 19th century.  This working breed was used for herding, herd-guarding, and cart pulling.  He has also been used for tracking by the police and military.

Description:
The Bouvier des Flandres stands 23.5 to 27.5 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 65 and 95 pounds.  His body is large, powerful, and thick-boned.  The tail is docked.  The shedding coat is weather-resistant, shaggy, and somewhat harsh, with a soft undercoat.  The dog has a beard, a mustache, and bushy eyebrows.  He needs daily brushing to prevent matting, and should be clipped every three or four months.  Show dogs must be hand-stripped to preserve the texture and luster of the coat.  However, the coat can be kept in a shorter clip to reduce maintenance.  The color may be black, salt-and-pepper, gray, brindle, or fawn.

About The Bouvier des Flandres:

This Belgian cattle dog is strong, alert, trustworthy, easygoing but aloof, and tends to be moody and serious.  Though affectionate with his owners, the Bouvier is very suspicious of strangers and will serve well as a watchdog for your home and property.  Training can be difficult due to his stubborn, dominant nature.  Passive resistance is common, and aggression is possible when the dog is annoyed or threatened.  Training should be patient and firm but not overbearing.  The Bouvier learns slowly and can be defiant.  The “Down” and the “Come” can be the hardest commands to teach this controlling breed.   The Bouvier has a high prey drive and may be very dog-aggressive.  He may want to chase cars, joggers, and bikes.  Though good with his own family’s children, he may be intolerant of visiting children, especially if they are running around.  No roughhousing or chasing should be tolerated.  Spoiling can encourage dominant, controlling, nippy behavior in this breed and may promote timidity.  Overbearing training techniques may elicit fear-biting.  Confident, firm leadership and early socialization are crucial to successfully owning a Bouvier.  He needs daily exercise and tends to bark and may be destructive and noisy if left alone too long.  He is susceptible to hip dysplasia and bloat.

Feeding:
Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of a high-quality meaty product with biscuit added or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home:
A house with a fenced yard is important.  The owner of a Bouvier des Flandres should be a firm, strong, active leader who desires a reserved, protective dog.  Mild or nervous owners as well as the elderly and the disabled may have trouble establishing dominance over this breed.  The Bouvier needs daily exercise, but should not be jogged with over long distances because of his heavy structure and predisposition to hip problems.  Time to train, socialize, exercise, and groom the Bouvier des Flandres must be made available.

First used in Medieval England, the Black and Tan Coonhound was perfected in the southern United States.  This breed is one of six types of Coonhound and was used as a tracker of opossum, raccoon, and bear.  It is a working hound that is not usually seen in the show ring.

Description:
Standing 23 to 27 inches at the shoulder and weighing between 70 and 90 pounds, this is a big, strong, agile scent hound.  The shedding coat is short, dense, and requires regular brushing with a hound glove.  Regular ear check is important with this breed.

About the Black and Tan Coonhound:

This is a very strong, hardy, active, driven breed that is primarily a” hunting dog and should not be considered for use as a family pet.  The Black and Tan Coonhound is not as adaptable to the home as the Beagle or Basset.  He is best owned by a hunter who can put his natural abilities to the best use. The Black and Tan is eager, alert, and possesses a superb sense of smell and will be easily distracted by any scent wafting through the neighborhood.  Similar to the Bloodhound and to a lesser extent, the Basset, this breed can be provoked to aggression if required to obey when he does not want to or when he does not understand what he is expected to do.  This is an explosive, non-thinking type of aggression that comes with very little warning.  The instinct to track in this breed is usually stronger than his owner’s ability to control; the dog goes into a driven, trance-like state that is hard to break through.  The Black and Tan Coonhound is normally suspicious of strangers and is not recommended for families with children because of his potential for aggression.  Though bred to be a pack hunter, he can be very dog-aggressive.  The Black and Tan Coonhound is also very vocal, making him best suited to life on a farm or in the country.  He is susceptible to hip dysplasia and ear infections and must have his ears cleaned regularly.  His owner must handle the dog liberally from day one or risk being bitten.

Feeding:
Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of branded meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete dry food.

Ideal Home:
A house with a fenced yard or a kennel is essential.  This breed does not make a good family pet because he does not understand and will not tolerate children.  He does much better if owned and used by a hunter on a regular basis.  He is a working hound that needs regular exercise as well as supervision and firm no-nonsense leadership.  Obedience training and socialization from day one are necessary for the Black and Tan Coonhound.

Originated in Switzerland, the Bernese Mountain Dog was bred for herding, guarding, drafting, and droving. His large, sturdy frame and long coat allowed him to perform in cold mountainous environments.

Description:

The Bernese Mountain Dog stands 23 to 27.5 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 70 and 100 pounds. He is a large breed and is similar to the Golden Retriever in structure, only heavier and bigger-boned. The shedding coat is medium-long, wavy, glossy, and thick and requires regular brushing to keep it in good condition. The Bernese is tricolored, primarily black with rust and white markings on the chest, muzzle, feet, and forehead.

About the Bernese Mountain Dog:

This large, beautiful, athletic dog is easily trained and makes a great watchdog and a good family pet. Though playful and gregarious as a pup, he tends to become more reserved and guarded as he matures. He is normally affectionate to his owner, but can be very suspicious of strangers. Some are very timid to the point of being phobic. This potential for extreme shyness can lead to a fear-based aggression that is difficult to modify. This breed also possesses a dominant, head-strong temperament. Stubbornness normally calls for a firm, consistent training technique, but many Bernese, particularly the females, can slip into a panicky mind-set if pushed, sometimes resulting in a bite. This tendency is usually a result of poor breeding practices, and may not be reversible.

A well bred Bernese Mountain Dog is trainable, but patience and precision are crucial. The Bernese needs daily exercise and is happier in a rural environment. Because of the potential for aggression, this breed is not recommended for families with children. Early socialization is important from day one, as well as handling and grooming. The Bernese Mountain Dog lives only ten to twelve years and can suffer from hip dysplasia and bloat. Anyone interested in this breed should visit numerous breeders and closely observe the parents and litter mates.

Feeding:

Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home:

A house with a fenced yard is important for the Bernese Mountain Dog. A strong, patient leader is mandatory, as well as early training, handling, and socialization. Families with children should at present avoid this breed, as should nervous, cautious, and over-bearing people. The elderly and the disabled may not be able to handle the Bernese Mountain Dog.

Description: The Alaskan Malamute stands 23 to 26 inches at the shoulder and usually weighs 75 to 125 pounds, while some are even larger.  He is thick-boned and has a large, muscular body.  The weather-resistant coat is thick, heavy, and of medium length.  The undercoat is dense and insulative.  He sheds abundantly year- round, particularly in early summer.  Regular brushing will keep his coat in good condition.  The color may be black-and-white with an off-white undercoat, red-and-white, or gray-and-white with an off-white undercoat.

About the breed: This is a sociable, affectionate, fast, strong, intelligent, and powerful breed who is always friendly and good-natured but somewhat stubborn. Usually good with children , the Alaskan Malamute does not make a good watchdog, but he does have a high prey drive and will show aggression toward other dogs.  He can be impetuous, dominant, and challenging, and is not the most cooperative breed with regard to obedience training.

Early training is important due to the breed’s size, level of dominance, and aggression toward animals.  The “Come” command is the most difficult to teach a Malamute because of his independent, free-thinking nature, though the females tend to be less dominant and aggressive.  A firm, consistent training technique must be used with this sometimes resistant breed.

He tends to be quite vocal and can be very destructive if not exercised daily.  Though he is friendly, keep in mind that this large breed can knock over and hurt a child during play.  No roughhousing or chase games should be tolerated. The Malamute loves to dig and will create holes all over your yard.  A large kennel with a concrete floor will eliminate this problem.

This breed can be left outside during even the coldest winter.  Although they are almost always good-natured, there are a few cases of aggression toward people with this breed, particularly from the males.  Once this behavior occurs, it is very difficult to modify and usually results in the destruction of the animal.

The Alaskan Malamute lives for only ten to twelve years and can suffer from hip dysplasia, shoulder problems, and bloat.  He loves the cold and will suffer in warmer climates.  He needs exercise, but should not be run long distances due to his weight and susceptibility to hip and shoulder problems.  This breed eats large amounts of food and can develop diarrhea if the diet is changed too rapidly.

Altering can lengthen the  life of an Alaskan Malamute and help prevent aggression and other behavioral problems.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home: This big, independent breed needs a  house with a fenced yard or kennel.  He needs a firm, consistent leader who is confident and physically able to deal with a powerful breed.   Training should begin early and should include daily socialization, handling, and grooming.  Spoiling, cautious, and overbearing persons should avoid the Alaskan Malamute, as should the elderly and the disabled.

There are of course many reasons for owners to want a calm, obedient and faithful dog. For one thing, obedient and trained dogs are happier dogs, less likely to get into tussles with people or with other dogs. Another reason is that many communities require that the dogs living in their neighborhoods be well trained. This is especially true for many breeds thought to have aggression and behavior problems – dog breeds like pit bulls and rottweilers for instance.

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And of course, training your dog well will also make he or she a much better family companion, especially in households where there are young children. Many studies have shown that proper dog training makes a big impact when it comes to cutting down the number of dog bits and other behavior problems encountered by dog owning households.

When considering training your own dog, or having someone else help you train it, there are certain basic commands that must be mastered in order for a dog to be considered truly trained. These basic commands include:

• Heel – it is important that any dog learn to walk beside its owner on a loose lead, neither pulling ahead nor lagging behind
• Respond to the word No – the word no is one word that all dogs must learn. Training your dog to respond to this important word can save you a ton of trouble.
• Sit – Training your dog to sit on command is a vital part of any dog training program.
• Stay – A well trained dog should remain where his or her owner commands, so stay is a very important command in dog training.
• Down – Lying down on command is more than just a cute trick; it is a key component of any successful dog training program.

 Dog training does much more than just create an obedient, willing companion. Training your dog properly actually strengthens the bond that already exists between dog and handler. Dogs are pack animals, and they look to their pack leader to tell them what to do. The key to successful dog training is to set yourself up as that pack leader.

Establishing yourself as pack leader is a very important concept for any potential dog trainer to understand. There is only one leader in every pack of dogs, and the owner must establish him or herself as the dominant animal. Failure to do so leads to all manner of behavior problems.

A properly trained dog will respond properly to all the owner’s commands, and will not display anxiety, displeasure or confusion. A good dog training program will focus on allowing the dog to learn just what is expected of it, and will use positive reinforcement to reward desired behaviors.

In addition to making the dog a good member of the community, obedience training is a great way to fulfill some of the dog’s own needs, including the need for exercise, the security that comes with knowing what is expected of it, a feeling of accomplishment and a good working relationship with its handler. Dog training gives the dog an important job to do, and an important goal to reach.

Giving the dog a job is more important than you may think. Dogs were originally bred by humans to do important work, such as herding sheep, guarding property and protecting people. Many dogs today have no important job to do, and this can often lead to boredom and neurotic behavior.

Basic obedience training, and ongoing training sessions, provide the dog with an important job to do. This is especially important for high energy breeds like German shepherds and border collies. Training sessions are a great way for these high energy dogs to use up their extra energy and simply to enjoy themselves.

Incorporating playtime into your dog training sessions is a great way to prevent both yourself and your dog from becoming bored.