Posts Tagged ‘Canned Food’
Is Buying Fancy Dog Food Necessary?
Dog-sports enthusiasts are often much more up on trends in nutrition than many veterinarians. That’s because they demand more of their dogs than do most of the clients a veterinarian will see. They want glossy coats on their show dogs, and energy to burn from their field, agility, or obedience dogs. They are always looking for an edge, and that makes them good people to talk to when it comes to choosing a food.
Another reason: They usually aren’t dealing with the conflict of interest many veterinarians have: Recommending a food sold in the veterinary hospital or clinic.
Bear in mind, however, that dog-sport competitors can be a little too trendy when it comes to food. They’re often big on supplementing, prepared formulas as well as vitamins, vegetables, raw meat, or herbal concoctions. And that’s just flat-out not necessary for the normal nutritional demands of a dog whose primary job is companion.
Some supplements may even be dangerous, depending on what’s being added. So here’s a little advice: If you don’t know what you’re doing, don’t do it. Buy a top-quality food and leave it at that. And if you have questions, ask your veterinarian.
Don’t Worry About Getting Too Fancy
Don’t think it’s too dull if your pet’s food is just plain brown: Fancy shapes and chunks of meat or cheese – or bits made to look like meat or cheese – are put there for your benefit. As long as it smells good, your dog doesn’t care what it looks like. (There’s even a saying, “looks like the dog’s dinner,” that pretty much sums up the fact that our idea of unappetizing is not the same as our dogs.)
There’s no evidence these people-pleasing touches will hurt your pet unless they’re too high in sugar, fat, or salt for your dog – but they’re nothing you need to seek out, and you certainly shouldn’t pay extra for them.
Some people just can’t believe a dog can be happy with plain kibble, even of a top-quality variety. If it makes you happy, add some canned food, maybe a little water and microwave it briefly. You’ll likely get the enthusiastic response you’re looking for. (Don’t forget to cover the leftover canned food and refrigerate.)
Before you start feeding this way, however, consider this: Should you ever want to travel with your dog, or need to leave him with your veterinarian, at a boarding kennel, or with a house-sitter or friend, he’ll do better if he’s used to eating kibble.
Feeding Your Labrador Retriever: Part 2
Many Labrador Retriever owners feed their pet semi-moist foods because they are easier to prepare than canned food and usually more delectable than regular dry food.
Semi-moist foods are usually packaged in easy-open pouches or as “hamburger patties.” The semi-moist foods contain much less water than canned foods, but they are expensive and loaded with sugar, preservatives, and additives.
These materials can sometimes produce allergic reactions that commonly result in skin biting or scratching by the sensitive Labrador Retriever. Though there are some semi-moist foods that are more nutritious than others, it is best to limit their intake to no more than ¼ of the dog’s diet, with the remaining ¾ being a quality dry food.
The dry-food category spans a large spectrum of quality, mostly commercial and professional. Most of the popular brands that are seen in supermarkets fall into the first category. The main problem with these is the amount the dog needs to consume daily in order to attain proper nutrition. Often, it is just too much, and leads to excessive elimination.
Check the recommended feeding amounts on the bag and apply it to the weight of your Labrador Retriever. If the suggested amount turns out to be more than your dog can easily eat in one meal, choose another brand. A second drawback of this type of dry food is that the mixture of ingredients often varies from batch to batch, due to fluctuations in which crop such as soy, wheat, oats, etc. is available at what time. Therefore, the nutritional value may differ somewhat from bag to bag.
The “professional” meat-meal blends offer some improvement. These are the high-quality dry foods that are sold primarily in pet shops, specialty stores, and online catalogs. They offer a nutritious, balanced diet in an easily digestible form. The makers retain a standard blending procedure from batch to batch to insure a uniform product.
The suggested feeding amounts are adequate to fill a dog up without overfeeding him. Although such products may cost a little more than the regular dry food, in the long run they are no more expensive than brands that require more to be eaten.
A quality meat-meal-based dry food has also been shown to aid in the housebreaking a Labrador Retriever because this type of mixture usually contains bran or fiber in amounts that help to produce firmer stools.
Feeding Your Labrador Retriever: Part 1
Selecting the right food for your Labrador Retriever should not be a random choice, as no other decision will have a greater impact on the overall well-being of your dog. What the dog eats affects his nutrition, and nutrition directly relates to overall health and longevity. A dog’s diet should be high in protein, with an ample supply of carbohydrates, fat, vitamins, and minerals. These requirements are easily met by selecting nutritionally complete products.
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Most single-pet households purchase their Labrador Retriever food from the supermarket. Often, pet owners are swayed into trying certain brands by price, packaging, and advertising. But the most popular brands may not be the best buys for your dog.
There are three main types of dog food: canned, semi-moist, and dry; with the occasional table scraps. Each of these used as the sole diet presents problems. A diet consisting exclusively of canned and semi-moist foods can wreak havoc with a dog’s digestive system, teeth, and gums.
Some dry foods must be taken in massive amounts to obtain all of the nutrients that are essential. And table scraps can throw a well-balanced diet right out of order. However, in spite of these pitfalls, there is no reason to despair. With a little research such as reading the labels and comparing and perhaps some trial and error, you should be able to work out the proper balanced diet for your Labrador Retriever.
Canned dog food should never be served as the only food. First of all, it is very high in water content (approximately 75%) and you end up paying hefty prices for little real substance. The meat used in canned food is certainly not from choice cuts, either, so do not let evasive television commercials fool you into thinking canned food is optimal.
In addition, the additives that are commonly used in canned foods, such as coloring and preservatives, are basically non digestible by the dog and can have a diuretic effect. Add this to the high water content and you will understand why a dog eating primarily canned food will have an increased need for urination and potential housebreaking problems.
However, there are some canned foods that are better for a Labrador Retriever than others, notably the ones designed for the different stages of a dog’s life. But even these should make up no more than ¼ of the Labrador Retriever daily intake and should be used in conjunction with a quality meat/meal-based dry food.
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The Right Food For Your Dalmatian: Part 1
Having the proper nutrition is one of the most important aspects of raising a healthy Dalmatian and yet it is often the source of controversy among breeders, veterinarians, pet owners and dog food manufacturers.
All Dalmatians are susceptible to forming life-threatening urinary tract “stones” though these can be effectively managed with diet. Although susceptibility to forming these “stones” is present in almost all Dalmatians, keep in mind that not all Dalmatians will necessarily form “stones” in their lifetime.
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Most dog foods are sold based on how to make a product appealing to owners instead of what would meet the needs of dogs, like a Dalmatian. Some foods are marketed on the basis of their protein content, others based on a “special” ingredient and some are sold because they do not contain certain ingredients such as preservatives. We want a dog food that specifically meets our dog’s needs, economical and causes few, if any, problems.
Most foods come in dry, semi-moist and canned forms, and some can now be purchased frozen. The dry food is the most economical, contain the least fat and the most preservatives. The canned food is the most expensive, contain 75% water, usually contain the most fat, and have the least preservatives. Semi-moist foods are also expensive and high in sugar content. In feeding the Dalmatian, the critical part of the diet is not the amount of protein but rather the type of protein.
Purines are a form of protein known to promote urinary “stones” in Dalmatians. We need to provide our Dalmatian with a diet that is low in purine, not necessarily a low-protein diet. Vegetable-based diets are not always satisfactory. While broccoli, kale, tomatoes, and carrots are low in purines, asparagus, cauliflower, beans, peas, mushrooms, spinach and whole grains are high in purines. The same is true for meats and dairy. Cheese, milk and eggs are low in purines, but most fish such as herring, mackerel, or sardines, organ meats such as liver, kidney, sweetbreads, poultry such as chicken, duck, or turkey, and meats such as beef, lamb, pork, and veal, are high in purines. The worst offenders are organ meats, and fish. In most commercial diets suitable for Dalmatians, poultry, lamb and eggs are usually the preferred sources for protein while rice is considered as the main source for carbohydrate.
There are commercial low purine diets available from veterinarians. You can also select other diets by paying close attention to their ingredients. In addition, it is also important to pay attention to treats that you give to your Dalmatian. The best treats for this breed includes fruits and cottage cheese. Last but not least, Dalmatians should be encouraged to drink large amounts of fresh, clean water. This not only keeps a Dalmatian hydrated, but it helps flush out their urinary tracts to keep large “stones” from forming.
Feeding Your Poodle (Part 1)
Poodle pups have special feeding requirements. A puppy’s stomach is not large enough to hold sufficient food in one feeding to provide his daily nutritional needs. When a puppy graduates from mother’s milk to solid food at about six weeks of age, he will require three to four meals a day, with the exception of Toys, who may need four to six meals. When he reaches about four to five months old, twice-a-day feedings may be sufficient. He can graduate to once-a-day meals at eight to nine months of age.
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Feeding The Poodle Pup: A pup’s nutritional requirements for growth and development are greater than those for an adult dog. If you opt to feed your Poodle pup a commercially prepared diet, feed one formulated especially for pups to ensure that your Poodle gets the nutrients he needs. A Poodle pup who eats a complete and balanced commercial puppy diet doesn’t need additional supplements. Adding supplements can cause nutritional imbalance. However, if you are supplying your dog with a home-cooked or fresh-diet meal plan, supplements may be necessary. Consult with a veterinary nutritionist.
Dry food can be moistened with warm water to encourage pups to eat. Milk can be used, too, but only in extremely small amounts. Cow’s milk causes digestive upset in some puppies and dogs. A tablespoon of canned food can be added to increase interest, as well. These are general guidelines for feeding your Poodle pup; consult with your veterinarian for more specific advice.
Feeding Adult Poodles: The adult Poodle is a mature dog, usually age one year or older. Healthy adult dogs who are not pregnant, nursing, or hardworking have somewhat low nutritional requirements. Feeding is fairly straightforward if you’re feeding commercially prepared kibble. Buy a complete and balanced diet made for the adult dog and give your dog the recommended amount once or twice a day. Add a tablespoon of canned food for taste if you wish. Adjust the amount according to the Poodle’s activity level and body condition.
Feeding Hardworking Poodles: Highly active Poodles use a lot of energy. The hard-working dog can require two to three time more kilocalories per pound of body weight than what is required for normal activity. To maintain good body condition and keep up his stamina, the hardworking Poodle must eat a high-energy diet.
Many veterinarians recommend commercially prepared “performance” diets for highly active dogs. Higher fat, higher-protein diets supply the working dog with needed calories. Because performance diets are higher in protein than maintenance diets, there s a misconception that the active dog just needs extra protein. However, all nutrients are required in greater amounts. Additionally, research indicates that moderately high-protein diets are unlikely to cause kidney damage – in spite of some breeders’ and owners’ beliefs that it does.
Feeding Your Elderly Poodle: Older Poodles (those who have reached the last 25 percent of their expected life span) are usually less active than adult dogs and pups. Thus, their energy requirements are reduced and they can gain weight easily if fed too much or fed a high-calorie diet. Some veterinarians recommend “senior” diets; foods high in nutrients but reduced in calories to keep a senior Poodle at a healthy weight.
