Edie MacKenzie On Dogs

Posts Tagged ‘Fence’

About half of dogs that dash out of doors do so because they are frustrated by captivity. The others are often leader types and either trying to get into the house to socialize with their owners or to continue their social contact by attempting to leave with the owner.

Whatever the basic motivation, the act can be both financially and emotionally costly. Such door-dashing has seriously injured children and elderly people, caused premature birth in pregnant women, resulted in injury and death of the dog and, in many cases, causes an automobile accident when a motorist swerves to miss the dog.

When the problem involves a dog that dashes merely to get out there to run about the neighborhood, avoiding its owners’ pleas to return, the pet is usually unruly in other circumstances as well.

These cases often involve an independent, self-oriented (spoiled) dog. Other factors may involve an early history of unrestricted outdoor activity, followed by restriction because of some problem that has arisen outside (fighting, car chasing, etc.).

Some cases involve continuous frustration relative to neighborhood activities, such as the dog’s “fretting” behind a gate or at a window.

Depending on the excitability of the animal, it may develop the same type of stereotyped behavior seen in fence-running dogs.

Simple freedom-dashing may be tension relieving in itself, or the escaped dog may have a frustration target, such as passing cars, playing children, mail carrier or other animals.

Correcting The Problem

1. Approach the door or gate. (Of course, the door-dasher will be close by.)

2. Given an inward-opening door, abruptly open it no more than 2 inches and abruptly close it. An outward-opening door should be opened no more than an inch and then closed very quickly, or the dog may push through or get a pinched snout.

3. As the door is closed, the owner must abruptly move away from it at least 8 feet and praise the dog for following, after which the owner should be encouraged to remain still for at least a minute. If the dog remains at the door, steps 1, 2 and 3 must be repeated until the dog retreats along with the owner.

4. Step 3 must be repeated until the dog stays away from the door when the owner approaches it and when the door is opened. When this occurs, the door should be opened a full foot. If the pet dashes, the door should again be slammed shut and Step 3 applied with this larger opening.

5. Step 4 is repeated until the door can be opened to its normal exit width, with the dog staying at least 8 feet away from it. When this is accomplished the owner must stay inside, close the door, return to the dog and praise it quietly. Then the owner should remain in the house, going about some other activity for at least half an hour before repeating the procedure.

6. When the dog stays away from the door on the initial approach, the owner should then proceed outside, close the door and stay away for at least 15 minutes, after which she should return as nonchalantly as possible

If this method is applied daily for a few days, most dogs begin to ignore the comings and goings of their owners.

Dogs that are extremely tenacious in their efforts to dash through a door ahead of people often have a long history of frustration about barriers, or are highly motivated by a strong stimulus on the other side of the door.

1. What kind of dog are you looking for? This is typically the very first question that a shelter will ask you. You should already be well- prepared to answer this question and can tell the staff members what sort of pup you want and why. Be thorough but flexible; as you chat, the staff may come up with new ideas for you, or they may be able to spot potential problems in your profile and suggest adjustments. Don’t let them talk you into anything you don’t want, but do let their knowledge guide you.

2. What are your living quarters like? The staff needs to know, for example, whether you live in a big house or a tiny apartment or something in between, so that they can help you find a dog of an appropriate size and energy level. They’ll be wary of adopting, say, a big, active dog to a family that lives in a twentieth story apartment, so if you’re interested in getting a dog who might seem unsuited to your living environment, you’ll have to convince them that you can make it work.

They’ll also need to know whether you rent or own your home. If you’re a renter, now is a good time to show proof that you’re allowed to have a canine roommate: either a copy of a lease with a “pets allowed” provision, or a signed statement from your landlord.

3. Do you have a fenced yard? If the answer is “no,” don’t feel bad; just explain to the staff that you understand that your dog will need exercise and outdoor play, and that you intend to walk her and have fun in the sun (or rain or snow) with her regularly. Tell the staff whether you have – or plan to build – an outdoor pen or kennel for your dog. And if you have special outdoor interests that you’ll be sharing with your new dog (hiking or jogging, for example), those, too, can make the absence of a fenced yard less of a drawback.

Even if the answer is “yes,” let them know that your fence is high enough and secure enough to confine the kind of dog you want, and that the yard provides adequate shelter from the sun, hot or cold temperatures and precipitation. And be sure the staff understands that you’re not going to leave your new dog by herself in the yard all day long.

4. Are you looking for an indoor or an outdoor dog? You already know that there is no such thing as an “outdoor dog.” No responsible shelter will adopt a dog to someone who intends to keep her outside all the time. Assure the staff that your dog will be a beloved family pet that will not be ignored outside.