ediemackenzie.com

Posts Tagged ‘Having Fun’

Knowing how to behave properly when around other dogs represents a skill vital for any canine to enjoy his venture beyond his own yard. However, this aspect of socialization harbors more serious risks than meeting people. Dogs possess a defined set of rules in greeting each other, and though most adults grant leeway for ill-mannered puppies, not all do.

For this reason, puppy kindergarten classes provides the safest venue for socializing your puppy around other dogs. Kindergarten restricts classes to puppies who have completed vaccinations and helps owners train basic manners. A good class recognizes the value of letting puppies interact.

Also important, but not always part of every puppy class, is the inclusion of structured play sessions. Many puppy classes allow general playtime with all the puppies turned loose at once. This frequently results in smaller or timid puppies getting “beat up” by larger or more dominant pups. Because unpleasant encounters can initiate fear or aggression toward other dogs, find a class where the instructor supervises all puppy interaction.

Look for kindergarten classes at training clubs or private trainers via your local phone directory under “pets” or “dog training”. Your potential instructor should have experience in teaching assorted breeds from the various groups. Ask if they use treats, toys, praise and play to encourage canine cooperation rather than forcing compliance. It is best to observe a class in progress. If both people and puppies appear to be doing well and having fun, consider signing up.

As mentioned, not all dogs look kindly on puppies. If your kindergarten class takes place at a busy training club, keep your pup away from dogs that are not in your group. Ignore the often heard assurance of “Oh, he’s friendly” unless it comes from your instructor. A well-meaning but misguided student from another class may offer this statement before understanding exactly how their dog feels about puppies.

“Monsters” That Your Dog May Have To Deal With

A few years ago, when walking one of my young dogs along a city sidewalk in my brother’s neighborhood, my dog stopped dead, staring nervously ahead. Following her gaze, I realized she had spotted a potential monster: a fire hydrant.

Though I have always worked hard to socialize my dogs well, Cocoa, my Ibizan Hound, was cautious in nature and country living had excluded a prior encounter with this common city fixture.

Knowing Cocoa would largely key off my own reaction, I “kidded” her about being silly and walked another route. After crossing the street, we again headed in the “monster’s” direction, but this time there was a street width between us. As Cocoa started eyeing the hydrant, I pretended to be oblivious, chatting happily to her until well past it. On the way back, she was fine.

Later, I decided to see how she would respond if we again walked on the side where the monster lay in wait. This time I armed myself with some treats. When we neared the spot where she first noticed the hydrant, I started talking cheerfully and gave her a few goodies. This distracted her from worrying and assured her I had no concerns.

Within a minute or two, we were beyond the hydrant. She gave a short backward glance to make sure it wasn’t following us, but paid it little mind on our return trip.

The point of the story is that you should expect odd or unfamiliar objects to alarm your puppy or young dog. And when they do, don’t soothe him with a pat on the back to make him feel better. He’ll take this as a reward for being afraid. Instead, work to face the “danger” head on so in time he becomes used to whatever it is that was scaring him in the first place.

Naturally, not every puppy comes from responsible beginnings. For the shelter puppy, one from a rescue group, or perhaps even a stray from completely unknown origins, your immediate attention to socialization can work wonders. This is the moments of your puppy’s life that can make or break his behavior and reaction to the outside world (as well as inside the house), for years to come.

However, keep in mind that, whether a few weeks or a few months old, coming home with you is a scary experience for a puppy. Give him a few days to adapt before taking him anywhere else.

Home soon provides a wonderful, secure environment for beginning socialization. The television, radio, blender and other appliances prepare your puppy for “strange” noises he may encounter later. Allowing him on different floorings, like vinyl, tile, wood and carpet, readies him for walking at the veterinarian’s office, pet supply store, friend’s homes, and more.

Of course every puppy is an individual and this fact greatly affects how you socialize your particular canine. Study your new addition, noting how he approaches unfamiliar objects and scenarios. A bold, fearless puppy frequently requires redirection to prevent him from jumping in headfirst, while a slightly timid or cautious youngster might need encouragement even in perfectly safe situations.

Professional trainers suggest that when your puppy shows hesitation towards something, don’t baby him. For instance, if your pup dislikes the slippery feel of vinyl, place a few pieces in or near his play area during supervised times. As you interact with him, purposefully disregard it when he “accidentally” places a foot on the vinyl. Your matter-of-fact attitude helps allay his concerns.

Alternatively, you can try throwing a favorite toy or treats onto the vinyl floor, enough so your pup’s feet make contact. This places his focus on having fun rather than worrying where he steps. As his confidence grows, sitting yourself on the vinyl floor further helps him forget his fears in order to join his favorite person.

These examples of positive, non-force methods illustrates how giving your puppy the time he needs builds confidence in his own abilities. Conversely, forcing a dog to confront and deal with something he is uncomfortable with, often called “flooding”, can be successful, but much depends on the dog, the issue, and application of the method. Done incorrectly, fears increase rather than decrease. For other than experienced trainers, positive works best.