Posts Tagged ‘Paws’
Your Dog’s Body Language And What It Means
Dogs use their bodies and paws to express a variety of different things. Below are some examples and what they mean.
Dog crouches with front legs extended, rear up, and head near the ground: This is the classic play-bow and means simply “I want to play!”
Stiff-legged, upright posture or slow, stiff-legged movement forward: “I am in charge around here!” and “I challenge you.” A dominant dog will use this posture to indicate assertion of authority and a willingness to fight for it.
Body slightly sloped forward, feet braced: “I accept your challenge and am ready to fight!”
Dog rolls on side or exposes underside: “Let us not argue” or “I am not a threat to you” or “I accept that you are in charge here.” This is a submissive response to avert conflict. Many dogs adopt this posture in a fairly relaxed and contented manner when they are around their pack leader. When your dog rolls on his back for a belly rub, he is actually accepting you as leader of the pack.
Dog places head on another dog’s shoulder or places paw on the back of another dog: “I want you to know who is the boss around here.” These gestures are commonly used by dominant dogs, pack leaders, and dogs that have aspirations of becoming a pack leader.
Mouthing: This shows up in dog-human interactions as the dog taking the handler’s hand in his mouth or, while walking, taking the lead in the mouth. Mouthing can be a serious sign of dominance challenging and shows that the dog does not accept the human as pack leader.
Dog places paw on master’s knee: “Look, I am here” or “Pay attention to me.” This attention-seeking signal has many variations. They include pawing the air in front of their master or sliding the head under the master’s hand.
Hair bristles on back and shoulders: This is a sign of anticipated aggression. A ridge of hair bristling down the back is a sign that says “Do not push me, I am angry!” When the bristling extends to the shoulders it means “I have had it with you” and is a sign of an imminent attack.
Dog sits with one front paw slightly raised: This is another sign of stress but is combined with insecurity. It means “I am anxious, uneasy and concerned.”
Dog rolls on his back and rubs it on the ground: This is sometimes preceded by nose rubbing where the dog pushes his face, and possibly his chest against the ground in a rubbing motion or rubs the face with a forepaw, from eyes to nose. They often follow feeding or occur as the dog’s owner begins to prepare food. However they also can occur following or in anticipation of other pleasant activities.
Scraping the ground and ripping the turf with the paws: This is usually after the dog has defecated but may occur at other times. Dogs have glands on the bottom of their feet that provide each with a unique scent. What a dog is saying here is ” I was here and I am leaving my calling card!”
When To Start Training And Socializing Your Dalmatian Puppy
Socialization and training your Dalmatian puppy need to start the very day of his arrival in your home. You should not address him without calling him by his name. A short, simple name is the easiest to teach because it catches the puppy’s attention quickly, so avoid giving him elaborate names. Always address the pup by the same name, not a whole series of pet names because the latter will only confuse your puppy. Say his name clearly, and call him over to you when you see him awake and wandering about. When he comes, make a big fuss over him for being such a good dog. He will then quickly associate the sound of his name with coming to you and a pleasant experience.
It is not too soon to start familiarizing him to the feel of a light collar, which can start as early as several hours after his arrival. Chances are he may hardly notice it or he may struggle, roll over, and try to rub it off his neck with his paws. You can divert his attention when this happens by offering a tasty treat, a toy, or by petting him. Before long he will accept the strange feeling around his neck and will no longer be aware of it.
Next is the lead; attach it and then immediately take the puppy outside or try to redirect his attention with things to see and sniff. He may struggle against the lead at first, biting at it and trying to free himself. Do not pull him with it at this point; just hold the end loosely and try to follow him if he starts off in any direction. Normally his attention will soon turn to investigating his surroundings if he is outside or if is taken into an unfamiliar room in your house; curiosity will take over and he will become interested in sniffing around the surroundings. Just follow your Dalmatian with the lead slackly held until he seems to have completely forgotten about it; and then try to get him to follow you.
Do not be rough or jerk at him; just tug gently on the lead in short quick motions, repeating his name or trying to get your Dalmatian to follow your hand while holding a bite of food or a favorite toy. If you have an older lead-trained dog, then it should be easier to get your Dalmatian puppy to follow along after him. In any case, the average Dalmatian puppy learns quite quickly and will soon be walking along nicely on the lead.
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How Dog Training Has Evolved Over The Last Few Decades
When you look down at your brand new, small and tender puppy peacefully sleeping in its little bed, it’s hard to think that in just two to three months it may grow to be 40, 50, or even up to 100 pounds depending on the type of breed and how much effort you’ll need in dog training.
And although its behaviors may be cute at the moment, like jumping up and putting his front paws on your body, these actions will be far less enjoyable when your dog is all grown up and literally knocking you over;so the younger you start your dog training, the better.
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Your best bet is to start dog training your puppy from day one so that he can learn proper manners as he grows into adulthood.
Puppies that are not trained in this manner end up learning all of the wrong stuff and their owners wonder why they cannot seem to get their dogs to behave as they age.
Many years ago, when dog training methods used more punishment oriented (using harsh methods to train puppies), dog trainers typically required all puppy trainees to be at least six months old.
The reason was partly due to the fact that such physical correction protocols used could not be done with dogs that were too small or too young.
What is ironic about dog training in the old days is that by the time most puppies are six months old they are big enough and mentally stubborn enough to ignore commands and are altogether tough to train.
New Times Bring Better Dog Training Methods
Over the last 20 years or so, the dog training profession has embraced more friendly and loving training tactics for their puppy clients. Most trainers now except puppies that are as young as 8 to 10 weeks old.
They are typically enrolled in socialization classes and puppy kindergarten.
Positive training is now used instead of the old-school methods of negative reinforcement. Puppies are taught to walk politely on the leash.
They learn the basic commands of sit, stay, lie down, and come. In addition to these simple instructions, other useful techniques are learned by puppies such as how to relax, give and take their paw, and polite greeting.
Dog Owners Are More Involved With Dog Training Today
Another interesting aspect of raising dogs that has been noted over the last couple of decades is that more and more dog owners have taken it upon themselves to train their puppies.
This is partly due to the fact that so many dog training publications and manuals have been written. Modern dog training programs are based more and more on scientific principles and psychological studies of animal behavior and temperament.
Simple dog training programs have taught dog owners to utilize techniques such as clicker training and luring.
Clicker training involves the use of a small mechanism that makes a clicking sound when pressed. When a dog hears the sound it will associate the click with whatever reward you give him. This tells the animal that something good is coming and he should repeat whatever behavior or action you have been teaching him.
Luring training is a very common form of dog training and is simply using food such as a dog treat, or even a toy, to induce the dog to display a specific behavior in order to follow the lure in hopes of getting the reward.
Puppy Training – How To Teach Your Puppy “Down”
As you start your puppy training session, put your puppy in the Sit position.
Hold a motivator to your puppy’s nose and let her smell it.
When she is really interested with what you have by licking or pawing at your hand, slowly lower your hand to the ground. Aim your fist between her front paws.
When your hand is on the ground and your puppy’s nose is also to the ground, her body will collapse to the ground.
Her chest must be touching the floor.
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Once she is in the down position, say “Down,” and give her the motivator while she stays in this position.
Puppies are smart – they will learn it is to their advantage to get into the down position to get the reward.
If your dog resists the Down command during puppy training and stands back up, put her back in the Sit position and again work the Down command.
Initially when puppy training, it is far easier for pups to go into a down from a sit position rather than from a stand position.
Puppy Grooming Socialization: Nail Trimming Conditioning Steps For Young Puppies
Young puppies are just too curious and active to sit still still and quite while you groom them. But the ones that learn how to sit nicely while being groomed will eventually learn to tolerate and even enjoy being brushed, bathed, trimmed, and clipped. A puppy that experiences all forms of being handled at an early age will be easily trainable and better socialized when around veterinarians, children, groomers, and pet sitters.
The key activity is to simply handle your puppy as often as you can during the day while concentrating on one particular part of the dog’s body for each session. Spend a few minutes handling his feet, then the ears, etc.
Getting Your Pup Used To Nail Trimming
Of all of the grooming activities that we must engage our pets in, nail trimming is probably the hardest for your puppy to get used to. And if you neglect to practice trimming your puppy’s nails at an early age, it may be virtually impossible to do so as he grows older.
Here is how to get your puppy accustomed to having his nails trimmed:
1. Touch your puppy’s paw and then click your clicker while giving him a treat. If he pulls back nervously then go a little slower next time. Your goal is just to be able to touch his paw without him pulling it back from you.
2. Once your dog is comfortable with having his paw touched, push the envelope a bit further by picking up his paw and moving it around. Whenever he lets you do so without flinching, click and offer a treat.
3. The next step is to start fondling the toes by separating them and wiggling them around some more. Press on his paw pads. Go slow and take your time.
4. Now it is time to introduce the nail clipper to your puppy, but do not click just yet! The first stage in the process is to get the dog used to having this shiny piece of metal up and close around its paws. Whenever he sniffs at the nail trimmer and does not appear to be scared, click and offer a treat.
5. Still yet, do not clip! The next baby step in this process is to fit the nail clipper over each of your puppy’s nails, but without clipping. Just add a little pressure. And again, click and treat when he appears to accept this activity.
6. Now it is time to make the cut. Clip the first nail, click your clicker, and offer a treat to your puppy. Be sure to be enthusiastic with lots of affection. When you feel he is ready for the next nail, move forward and clip the rest in a timed fashion. Remember to go slow and make the process fun.