The breed originated in Spain during the 13th century, and is thought to have been created by crossing Poodles and Barbet Water Spaniels. They were used as an item of trade by Spanish sailors and as a result reached many European countries. In France, they became a particular favorite of the aristocracy, and by the 16th century, the Bichon was entrenched as the favorite dog of the French royal court.

In addition, Bichons found their way into circuses and performing troupes due to their remarkable ability to learn and perform tricks.

The Bichon Frise is a small dog that is classified in the Toy or Companion Group by most registries. They are sturdy little dogs, weighing up to 12 pounds and standing between 9 and 12 inches tall. The coat is soft and silky and is considered hypoallergenic, making the Bichon an ideal pet for someone with allergies. Coat color is always white, although there may be apricot or cream shading on the ears.

As a dog bred to be a human companion it’s no surprise that the Bichon has a wonderfully balanced personality. They are friendly, outgoing and affectionate, forming close bonds with those they love. They are good with children and other pets, and generally just a joy to have around.

These intelligent and attentive little dogs are easy to train, except in one area – they can be a real hassle to housetrain.

In common with many small breeds, Bichons enjoy a relatively long lifespan, and quite commonly live for 15 years or more. Common health problems include canine cancers (especially in older dogs), cataracts, epilepsy, and fleabite allergies. Bichons may also suffer from a condition known as liver shunts, which needs to be corrected surgically.

As you’d imagine with that luxuriant, white coat, grooming can be a challenge. Your Bichon will require brushing every day, and the coat will also have to be trimmed regularly to keep it in shape. You can also bathe the dog once a month, but don’t overdo it as the dog has sensitive skin. Also be sure to use a mild, dog shampoo.

It goes without saying that this is an indoor dog. The Bichon is perfect for apartment living and needs to always be close to his human family. They are quite prone to separation anxiety, and should therefore not be left unattended for long periods. As with all dogs, the Bichon needs regular exercise, and while much of this can be met with indoor games, you’ll still need to get your dog outdoors for a short walk daily.

Good names for a Bichon Frise can be hard to find. The best advice is to search one of the online dog names, sites, and my personal favorite is Puppy Names HQ. This site has thousands of excellent dog names, including a mega-database of cool dog names to pick from.

It is imperative that you choose a dog that is a good match for your lifestyle. You can start by answering the questions set out below.

1. How much space do you have?

Not all dogs need acres of space. in fact, provided they get regular exercise, most are quite happy with a small garden. Having said that, it should be obvious that some dogs need more room than others. Keeping a highly energetic dog, like an Airedale, or a Weimaraner, confined to a small apartment is just asking for trouble. You’ll very soon end up with a dog that is highly strung, destructive, and a real handful.

If you have limited space choose a more laid back breed instead. But remember, all dogs need at least some outdoor time, and regular exercise.

2. How much free time do you have?

Your number one responsibility as a dog owner is the well-being of your dog. Among other things, this includes daily walks and exercise. How long should they be exercised for? Well for most dogs, an hour per day will be sufficient. However, some breeds, particularly those from the herding, sporting and working groups, need even more than that. You’re looking at 2-3 hours per day to keep them satisfied.

Do you have what it takes to keep up with such an energetic dog? If not you may be better matched with a more relaxed companion, a Bulldog perhaps.Another consideration regarding time, is training. All dogs will benefit from at least some training. Some, like Poodles, Labs, and Golden Retrievers are relatively easy to train. Others, including most of the hound group, can be a real challenge.

3. What’s Your Activity Level?

If you love the active outdoor lifestyle, or if you have the kind of job where you can involve your dog, you’d probably do well with a dog that is a good match for your level of energy. You’ll probably want to choose a herding dog, or a working dog, like a Husky. These breeds love to work and really come into their own when given a job of work to do.

You may also want to consider a dog from the gun dog group, a Lab or Golden Retriever, perhaps. These dogs have bags of energy, and love to work, but they’re less demanding than other high energy breeds.

4. Do you have kids? How old are they?

It should be obvious that if you have children, you’ll want a dog that is good with children. Labradors and Golden Retrievers are renowned for their sweet natures, which explains the enduring popularity of these breeds.

Others that fit the bill are Beagles and Boxers who, despite their size, are known for their gentleness with children.Some breeds though, are not ideal around small children. Many toy breeds have a tendency to snap if provoked, while a large boisterous dog can easily knock a child over.

{Choosing a dog is an important decision and one that will impact on your life for the next 10-15 years. It is therefore advisable to make an informed decision. The questions above will get you started.|Choosing a dog is a big decision. What you do now will affect your life for the next 10 years and more, so choose wisely. Answer the questions above and you’ll be off to a good start.|Picking a dog is and important decision, and one you’ll want

If you want to discover more about dog breeds a-z, dog care, types of dogs and other interesting dog advice check out http://www.dogsanddogtraining.com

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Does your Poodle insist on being the center of attention? Does he bark at people outside your yard? If he gets out of the yard, does he refuse to come when you call him? Does he raid the trashcan? Does he jump on your guests? These are not unusual behaviors for a young, untrained dog, but they are unnecessary, potentially dangerous, and annoying behaviors that you can change (or at least control) through training.

With training, your Poodle can learn to control himself so that he doesn’t react to every impulse. He can learn to sit while greeting people rather than covering them with muddy paw     & prints or ripping their clothes. He can learn to restrain some of his vocalizations and to ignore the trashcans.

Ideally, training should begin as soon as you bring home your new Poodle. If you have an eight to ten-week-old puppy, that’s okay. Your new puppy can begin learning that biting isn’t allowed, that he should sit for treats, petting, and meals, and where he should go to relieve himself. By ten weeks of age, you can attach a small leash to his collar and let him drag it around for a few minutes at a time so he gets used to it. Always watch him closely, of course, so that he doesn’t get the leash tangled up in something and choke himself. Young puppies have a very short attention span, but they are capable of learning and are eager students.

Don’t let your Poodle pup do anything now that you don’t want him to do later when he is full grown. For example, if you don’t want your Standard Poodle up on your lap when he’s 45 pounds of rough paws and hard elbows, don’t let him on your lap now. If you don’t want your Toy Poodle growing up to be a problem barker, stop the barking when he’s a puppy. It will be much harder to change the habit later. Keep in mind as you begin your dog’s training that Poodles are an intelligent breed, responsive to training!

If you have adopted a Poodle who is an older puppy or an adult, you can still begin training right away.

Although your new dog will need time to get used to you and his new home, early training will help your Poodle learn what you expect of him, and as a result, will make that adjustment easier.

There are two basic types of nail clippers: the scissors and the guillotine. You also can use a nail grinder, but it may take some time to get your dog used to the noise. If you use scissors or guillotine clippers, keep them sharp and clean. Dull clippers won’t make a clean cut, and rusty, dirty ones can infect your dog if you cut too quick and your pet bleeds. The objective when clipping nails is to trim as close to the quick as possible without accidentally nicking it. Dark nails are more difficult to cut than light-colored ones, since it is impossible to see the pink vein.

Remove the dry looking hook at the tip of the nail, cutting off small bits of nail at a time. As you cut the nail shorter, you’ll notice it becomes softer and you’ll see a small grayish-white dot under the nail, which is the end of the quick. When you reach this point, the nail is short enough; you can now move on to the next one. Keep in mind that the more often you trim, the shorter you can get the nail, since the quick actually recedes with frequent trimming. Cut each nail as quickly and cleanly as possible; cutting slowly tends to pinch the nail and cause your dog discomfort.

To trim your Poodle’s nails, hold one paw firmly in your left hand (if you’re right-handed) and place your thumb on top of the foot. Place your fingers underneath the pads so you can spread the toes. With the clippers in your right hand, clip each nail right below the quick with short, decisive strokes. Don’t forget the dewclaws if they were not removed when your Poodle was a pup.

Finish trimming the first paw, then file each nail with a metal file to remove sharp, rough edges that could scratch your legs if your Poodle is naughty and jumps up on you. DO NOT file any nails that have bled. Work your way to the next paw, trim each nail, then file.

If you accidentally cut too close, don’t panic. Apply a styptic powder to staunch the bleeding and continue clipping the other nails. Don’t stop and make a big fuss over your mistake, as it may make your dog even more apprehensive the next time you attempt to clip his nails.

A word of advice: start early. Poodles, like all dogs, must learn to accept new experiences. Begin nail trimming while your dog is a pup and do it every week. Between trimmings, handle the dogs feet to accustom her to being touched. The Poodle doesn’t usually make a fuss about trimming, but it’s still wise to-teach your dog to accept it from a young age. Before attempting to clip your Poodle s nails yourself, you may want to observe your groomer or veterinarian the first time.

As the dog matures into adulthood, the coat develops a thick, curly quality. The best way to judge a puppy’s potential adult coat is to look at the parents. If they carry good coats, their
puppies will likely possess them too.

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Ever since the first hunters trimmed their retrieving dogs to prevent drowning, the Poodle hairstyle has been a favorite topic of conversation among dog people. Initially, Poodles sported either a Continental clip or an English Saddle clip. Now, hundreds of years later, these are still popular as they are required clips for show dogs.

Puppies under one year of age are shown in a simple trim known as a “Puppy clip”. Only the face, throat, feet and base of tail are clipped. The tail displays the characteristic pompom at its end. The body coat is lightly trimmed to give it a neat unbroken line for a pleasant appearance.

The “Continental clip” has full hair around the chest and rib cage, with shaved hindquarters and legs. Large pompons are sculpted over each hip above the area of the kidneys (optional) and around the ankles for protection from the cold.

The “English Saddle clip” permits a short mantle of hair over the hindquarters and full
coat from the waist to the topknot and ears. The ankle and knee joints are also protected with pompons.

All Poodles are given a topknot of hair over the skull that is brushed out and groomed to stand erect in a rounded pompon. Adult dogs must be shown in either the English Saddle or Continental clip; the only exception being competitors in Stud Dog classes, for which a Sporting clip is permitted. The English Saddle and Continental are the clips of choice for the conformation ring around the world, except in the UK, where the Lion clip is preferred.

Pet Poodles and those not being shown in breed conformation classes at dog shows are usually groomed in styles designed for ease of maintenance. Often the body hair is clipped short, with the legs trimmed a bit longer. Some male Poodles sport tiny mustaches around the muzzles. The pet style is usually determined by the owner’s willingness and capability to maintain the coat in a well-groomed fashion. In addition. a Poodle that spend a lot of time outdoors are usually kept shorter because it’s easier to keep the coat clean when the hair isn’t too long.

Well-bred Poodles are hardy, long-lived dogs who enjoy good health all their days. However, Poodles can be subject to certain health conditions, and the wise Poodle puppy buyer should be aware of these problems and avoid them whenever possible.

As with humans, Poodles have many health concerns that are hereditary in nature. Many of these can be avoided by careful investigation on the new owner’s part by asking the breeder about the health background of the Poodle puppy’s parents.

For example, have the parents been tested for such conditions as cataracts that can cause blindness?

Does either of the parents have epilepsy and, if so, how is it controlled?

Has either parent experienced orthopedic problems and, if so, how serious were they?

Here we take a closer look at some health conditions that have been found in Poodles as well as many other breeds of dog. Please note that not all Poodles experience these conditions. However, it behooves the puppy buyer to be well informed regarding potential health concerns of the breed under consideration. Also note that responsible breeders do not breed from any dog that is known to have or carry any hereditary problems.

Poodle Eye Problems: A cataract is a cloudiness or film over the lens of the eye, categorized by age of onset, location on the eye and stage of the cloudiness. This condition is hereditary, and parents should be tested before breeding takes place to prevent this condition from being passed on.

Glaucoma, a leading cause of blindness, is caused by an increase in fluid pressure within the eye. It can be hereditary, and parents should be tested prior to breeding. Miniature Poodles are prone to narrow-angle glaucoma, which produces pain and redness in the eyes. The treatment is medical and/or surgical.

Progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, refers to inherited disorders affecting the retina of the eye. Visual impairment is slow but progressive. Night blindness can be the first signal of trouble, and there is no known way to stop onset.

Poodle Skin Problems: Atopic dermatitis refers to an unusual or atypical condition of the derma or skin. It can be difficult to diagnose.

Sebaceous adenitis is inflammatory damage to hair follicles and sebaceous glands. It is most often seen in Standard Poodles but also seen in Toys and Miniatures. It is a hereditary condition. There is no known cure, but treatment to control it includes frequent bathing to reduce surface scale and to increase moisture to the skin.

Color dilution alopecia is an anomaly that usually occurs in dogs bred for unusual coat colors, such as those described as “blue,” which is a diluted form of black. The condition, when it occurs, is not curable. Moisturizers and frequent shampooing can lessen the incidence of dry, scaly skin.

Seborrhea is an abnormal and excessive discharge from the sebaceous glands in the skin for your Poodle it must be treated medically.

The shoulders should be strong and “smoothly muscled,” with the shoulder blade “well laid back and approximately the same length as the upper foreleg.” (Well-laid-back means about 45 degrees.) The forelegs should be straight and parallel when viewed from the front. When seen from the side, the elbow should be “directly below the highest point of the shoulder.”

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The feet are “rather small, oval in shape with toes well arched and cushioned on thick firm pads.” They should not turn in or out. The angle of the hindquarters balances that of the forequarters. The hind legs should be “straight and parallel” when viewed from the rear.

The chest should be “deep and moderately wide with well-sprung ribs.” The loin is short, broad, and muscular. The tail is docked, “set on high and carried up.” A tail that is set low, curled, or carried over the back is a major fault.

Gait: The show ring gait (movement) of a Poodle should be “a straightforward trot with light springy action, and strong hindquarters drive.”

Coat: The coat can be “Curly of naturally harsh texture, dense throughout,” or “Corded: hanging in tight even cords of varying length, longer on mane or body coat, head, and ears; shorter on puffs, bracelets, and pompons.”

For showing, a Poodle must appear in one of the following traditional clips: a puppy clip, (for dogs under 12 months of age); the English saddle clip; the continental clip; or the sporting clip (for non-competitive classes like veterans or for stud classes).

Colors: Poodles may be of any solid color: apricot, black, blue, brown, cafe au lait, cream, gray, silver, or white, with black and white being the most common. Whatever the color, however, it must be solid. Any parti-colored Poodle, for instance a black dog with white paws or chest, is disqualified from the show ring-—although they make charming pets.

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Size: Here lies the only difference of note among the three varieties. The Standard Poodle is over 15 inches at the highest point of the shoulders and weighs 45 to 65 pounds. The Miniature Poodle is 15 inches or under at the highest point of the shoulders, with a minimum height in excess of 10 inches. He weighs 14 to 18 pounds, and is the most popular of the Poodle varieties today. The Toy Poodle is ten inches or under at the highest point of the shoulders. He weighs between 6 and 12 pounds. (European standards are somewhat different, dividing the breed into four size categories: Standard, Miniature, Dwarf, and Toy.)

The first Toy Poodles were nearly always white, but the other colors were introduced by breeding white Toy males to Miniature females of various colors. Today, Toys come in the same range of colors as Standards and Miniatures.

General Appearance: The standard states that the Poodle is a “very active, intelligent, and elegant-appearing dog, squarely built, well-proportioned, moving soundly and carrying himself proudly. Properly clipped in the traditional fashion and carefully groomed, the Poodle has about him an air of distinction and dignity peculiar to himself.” That describes the Poodle most accurately.

At first, the English and American breed standards were identical. Both the English and the American Kennel Clubs recognized Standard and Miniature Poodles; both recognized all colors. Today, minor differences exist between the two. In America, the Toy Poodle must be under 10 inches; it is categorized in the Toy Group, while the other two sizes are categorized in the Non-Sporting Group. The English Toy Poodle is another inch higher, and all varieties of Poodle are categorized in the Utility group.

The general appearance of the Poodle is square, meaning that “the length of body measured from the breastbone to the point of the rump approximates the height from the highest point of the shoulders to the ground.”

Head and Expression: The proper Poodle has almond-shaped eyes which are “very dark” and “oval in shape.” He should have “an alert intelligent expression.” It is considered a major fault if the eyes are “round, protruding, large, or very light.” The ears should hang “close to the head, set at or slightly below eye level.”

The skull should be “moderately rounded, with a slight but definite stop.” (The stop is where the muzzle meets the upper part of the skull.) The muzzle should be “long, straight, and fine with slight chiseling under the eyes.” The ideal length is clearly defined; it should be the same as the “length from occiput [the back part of the skull] to stop.” A muzzle that is too long is called “snipey” and is considered a fault in a Poodle.

Here’s an interesting Stand Poodle question:

• Standard Poodle Question? | anon – Over all how high energy do you think standard poodles are? How tolerable are they? What do you know about standard poodles?Answer:Everything Vixen said plus.

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Feeding The Poodle Pup: A pup’s nutritional requirements for growth and development are greater than those for an adult dog. If you opt to feed your Poodle pup a commercially prepared diet, feed one formulated especially for pups to ensure that your Poodle gets the nutrients he needs. A Poodle pup who eats a complete and balanced commercial puppy diet doesn’t need additional supplements. Adding supplements can cause nutritional imbalance. However, if you are supplying your dog with a home-cooked or fresh-diet meal plan, supplements may be necessary. Consult with a veterinary nutritionist.

Dry food can be moistened with warm water to encourage pups to eat. Milk can be used, too, but only in extremely small amounts. Cow’s milk causes digestive upset in some puppies and dogs. A tablespoon of canned food can be added to increase interest, as well. These are general guidelines for feeding your Poodle pup; consult with your veterinarian for more specific advice.

Feeding Adult Poodles: The adult Poodle is a mature dog, usually age one year or older. Healthy adult dogs who are not pregnant, nursing, or hardworking have somewhat low nutritional requirements. Feeding is fairly straightforward if you’re feeding commercially prepared kibble. Buy a complete and balanced diet made for the adult dog and give your dog the recommended amount once or twice a day. Add a tablespoon of canned food for taste if you wish. Adjust the amount according to the Poodle’s activity level and body condition.

Feeding Hardworking Poodles: Highly active Poodles use a lot of energy. The hard-working dog can require two to three time more kilocalories per pound of body weight than what is required for normal activity. To maintain good body condition and keep up his stamina, the hardworking Poodle must eat a high-energy diet.

Many veterinarians recommend commercially prepared “performance” diets for highly active dogs. Higher fat, higher-protein diets supply the working dog with needed calories. Because performance diets are higher in protein than maintenance diets, there s a misconception that the active dog just needs extra protein. However, all nutrients are required in greater amounts. Additionally, research indicates that moderately high-protein diets are unlikely to cause kidney damage – in spite of some breeders’ and owners’ beliefs that it does.

Feeding Your Elderly Poodle: Older Poodles (those who have reached the last 25 percent of their expected life span) are usually less active than adult dogs and pups. Thus, their energy requirements are reduced and they can gain weight easily if fed too much or fed a high-calorie diet. Some veterinarians recommend “senior” diets; foods high in nutrients but reduced in calories to keep a senior Poodle at a healthy weight.

In addition to loving life in general, Poodles love people even more. They are particularly perceptive of our moods and emotions, and respond accordingly. They join in celebrations when we’re happy and hover nearby in quiet concern when we’re ill, worried or sad.

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They are extremely intelligent and can learn an amazing repertoire of commands if taught with patience and kindness. Retrieving fallen ducks and carrying things in their mouths are but a sample of their rehearsed behaviors. Ever since early Poodle owners discovered the breed’s propensity to learn. Poodles have been trained to perform many behaviors, from helping owners around the home to dancing in circus acts around the world.

Poodles love to please. They crave attention and have an uncanny sense of humor. If, for example, a Poodle does something that an owner finds amusing and the person responds with laughter and praise, the dog will quickly pick up this response and repeat the behavior over and over. In short, Poodles are genetically “programmed” to work with humans and use their own emotional intuitiveness to create strong bonds with their owners.

The physical makeup of Poodles is such that they can perform many athletic feats with ease. Standing on their hind legs and “dancing,” climbing to heights on ladders and ramps, jumping all types of barriers and sitting on their haunches to “beg” are just some of the Poodle’s agile maneuvers. These and many more stunts are possible due to the breed’s exceptional sense of balance and dexterity.

Combine intelligence, emotional intuitiveness, love of companionship, physical ability and beauty in one breed of dog and you have the remarkable, personable Poodle. This breed is of such great versatility, it’s no wonder the Poodle is considered to be the most intelligent of all breeds.