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Posts Tagged ‘Pup’

1. What kind of dog are you looking for? This is typically the very first question that a shelter will ask you. You should already be well- prepared to answer this question and can tell the staff members what sort of pup you want and why. Be thorough but flexible; as you chat, the staff may come up with new ideas for you, or they may be able to spot potential problems in your profile and suggest adjustments. Don’t let them talk you into anything you don’t want, but do let their knowledge guide you.

2. What are your living quarters like? The staff needs to know, for example, whether you live in a big house or a tiny apartment or something in between, so that they can help you find a dog of an appropriate size and energy level. They’ll be wary of adopting, say, a big, active dog to a family that lives in a twentieth story apartment, so if you’re interested in getting a dog who might seem unsuited to your living environment, you’ll have to convince them that you can make it work.

They’ll also need to know whether you rent or own your home. If you’re a renter, now is a good time to show proof that you’re allowed to have a canine roommate: either a copy of a lease with a “pets allowed” provision, or a signed statement from your landlord.

3. Do you have a fenced yard? If the answer is “no,” don’t feel bad; just explain to the staff that you understand that your dog will need exercise and outdoor play, and that you intend to walk her and have fun in the sun (or rain or snow) with her regularly. Tell the staff whether you have - or plan to build - an outdoor pen or kennel for your dog. And if you have special outdoor interests that you’ll be sharing with your new dog (hiking or jogging, for example), those, too, can make the absence of a fenced yard less of a drawback.

Even if the answer is “yes,” let them know that your fence is high enough and secure enough to confine the kind of dog you want, and that the yard provides adequate shelter from the sun, hot or cold temperatures and precipitation. And be sure the staff understands that you’re not going to leave your new dog by herself in the yard all day long.

4. Are you looking for an indoor or an outdoor dog? You already know that there is no such thing as an “outdoor dog.” No responsible shelter will adopt a dog to someone who intends to keep her outside all the time. Assure the staff that your dog will be a beloved family pet that will not be ignored outside.

One of the first dog training protocol you will want to initiate when you get a new puppy is to teach him to inhibit the force of his play-bites. It is not necessary to reprimand the pup, and certainly physical punishments are not called for. But it is essential to let your puppy know that bites can hurt. A simple “Ouch!” is usually sufficient. When the puppy backs off, take a short time-out to “lick your wounds,” instruct your pup to come, sit, and lie down to apologize and make up. Then resume playing.

If your puppy does not respond to your yelp by easing up or backing off, an effective technique is to call the puppy a “Bully!” and then leave the room and shut the door. Allow the pup a minute or two time-out to reflect on the association between his painful bite and the immediate departure of his favorite human chew-toy. Then return to make up. It is important to show that you still love your puppy, only that his painful bites are objectionable. Have your pup come and sit and then resume playing once more.

It is much better for you to walk away from the pup than to physically restrain him or remove him to his confinement area at a time when he is biting too hard. So make a habit of playing with your puppy in his long-term confinement area. This technique is remarkably effective with lead-headed dogs, since it is precisely the way puppies learn to inhibit the force of their bites when playing with each other. If one puppy bites another too hard, the dog who gets bitten yelps and playing is postponed while he licks his wounds. The biter soon learns that hard bites interrupt an otherwise enjoyable play session. He learns to bite more softly once play resumes.

The next step is to eliminate bite pressure entirely, even though the “bites” no longer hurt. While your puppy is chewing his human chew-toy, wait for a bite that is harder than the rest and respond as if it really hurt, even though it didn’t: “Ouch - Gennntly! That really hurt me, you bully!” Your puppy begins to think, “Good heavens! These humans are soooooo sensitive. I’ll have to be really careful when mouthing their delicate skin.” And that’s precisely what you want your pup to think: that he needs to be extremely careful and gentle when playing with people.

Your pup should learn not to hurt people well before he is three months old. Ideally, by the time he is four and a half months old (before he develops strong jaws and adult canine teeth) he should no longer be exerting any pressure when mouthing.

Bringing home a new puppy is the equivalent to adding a new member to your family, literally. With this new edition comes lots of love and excitement, as well as new responsibilities, especially in his first few weeks at the house. These responsibilities include feeding him well and providing the pup with necessary supplies such as a crate, blanket, toys, etc. Most importantly, you need to make sure that he is healthy and will stay that way throughout his life.

Finding The Right Vet

A very important requirement that many new pet owners tend to overlook is finding the right veterinarian for their pets. Taking your puppy to the vet right away, preferably within the first two days of bringing him home, is a must. This is to ensure that he is in perfect health and that he is getting all of the preventive caring needed, like vaccinations and regular routine exams.

Your family and friends may be able to recommend you to a nearby vet clinic. You may also do your own research by calling several clinics and setting up an appointment to see the place and find out first hand if it is the right one for you and your pet.

Veterinarian Expenses

For many pet owners, finding the right vet is not the problem, but rather the costs of veterinary care. Visits to the vet can be pricey, even with minor cases such as getting his yearly vaccination or a routine checkup. In addition, an illness or severe injury can occur at any time, and many dog owners end up having to pay a lot of out-of-pocket expenses to the vet clinic. This is why it is highly recommended that you get pet insurance as soon as possible.

Having pet insurance is the best way to ensure that your puppy is getting the best health care possible. Pet insurance is a practical way to lessen the cost of veterinary expenses, whether it is related to routine care, accidents, or injuries. Pet insurance also covers the cost of minor surgeries, major surgeries, treatments for illnesses and diseases, and other medical procedures such as neutering or spaying.

Finding the right, affordable pet insurance is as easy as picking up the yellow pages or searching online. Most pet insurance plans offer a monthly premium that is less than what you typically pay for your cable bill.

Knowing how to behave properly when around other dogs represents a skill vital for any canine to enjoy his venture beyond his own yard. However, this aspect of socialization harbors more serious risks than meeting people. Dogs possess a defined set of rules in greeting each other, and though most adults grant leeway for ill-mannered puppies, not all do.

For this reason, puppy kindergarten classes provides the safest venue for socializing your puppy around other dogs. Kindergarten restricts classes to puppies who have completed vaccinations and helps owners train basic manners. A good class recognizes the value of letting puppies interact.

Also important, but not always part of every puppy class, is the inclusion of structured play sessions. Many puppy classes allow general playtime with all the puppies turned loose at once. This frequently results in smaller or timid puppies getting “beat up” by larger or more dominant pups. Because unpleasant encounters can initiate fear or aggression toward other dogs, find a class where the instructor supervises all puppy interaction.

Look for kindergarten classes at training clubs or private trainers via your local phone directory under “pets” or “dog training”. Your potential instructor should have experience in teaching assorted breeds from the various groups. Ask if they use treats, toys, praise and play to encourage canine cooperation rather than forcing compliance. It is best to observe a class in progress. If both people and puppies appear to be doing well and having fun, consider signing up.

As mentioned, not all dogs look kindly on puppies. If your kindergarten class takes place at a busy training club, keep your pup away from dogs that are not in your group. Ignore the often heard assurance of “Oh, he’s friendly” unless it comes from your instructor. A well-meaning but misguided student from another class may offer this statement before understanding exactly how their dog feels about puppies.

“Monsters” That Your Dog May Have To Deal With

A few years ago, when walking one of my young dogs along a city sidewalk in my brother’s neighborhood, my dog stopped dead, staring nervously ahead. Following her gaze, I realized she had spotted a potential monster: a fire hydrant.

Though I have always worked hard to socialize my dogs well, Cocoa, my Ibizan Hound, was cautious in nature and country living had excluded a prior encounter with this common city fixture.

Knowing Cocoa would largely key off my own reaction, I “kidded” her about being silly and walked another route. After crossing the street, we again headed in the “monster’s” direction, but this time there was a street width between us. As Cocoa started eyeing the hydrant, I pretended to be oblivious, chatting happily to her until well past it. On the way back, she was fine.

Later, I decided to see how she would respond if we again walked on the side where the monster lay in wait. This time I armed myself with some treats. When we neared the spot where she first noticed the hydrant, I started talking cheerfully and gave her a few goodies. This distracted her from worrying and assured her I had no concerns.

Within a minute or two, we were beyond the hydrant. She gave a short backward glance to make sure it wasn’t following us, but paid it little mind on our return trip.

The point of the story is that you should expect odd or unfamiliar objects to alarm your puppy or young dog. And when they do, don’t soothe him with a pat on the back to make him feel better. He’ll take this as a reward for being afraid. Instead, work to face the “danger” head on so in time he becomes used to whatever it is that was scaring him in the first place.

Naturally, not every puppy comes from responsible beginnings. For the shelter puppy, one from a rescue group, or perhaps even a stray from completely unknown origins, your immediate attention to socialization can work wonders. This is the moments of your puppy’s life that can make or break his behavior and reaction to the outside world (as well as inside the house), for years to come.

However, keep in mind that, whether a few weeks or a few months old, coming home with you is a scary experience for a puppy. Give him a few days to adapt before taking him anywhere else.

Home soon provides a wonderful, secure environment for beginning socialization. The television, radio, blender and other appliances prepare your puppy for “strange” noises he may encounter later. Allowing him on different floorings, like vinyl, tile, wood and carpet, readies him for walking at the veterinarian’s office, pet supply store, friend’s homes, and more.

Of course every puppy is an individual and this fact greatly affects how you socialize your particular canine. Study your new addition, noting how he approaches unfamiliar objects and scenarios. A bold, fearless puppy frequently requires redirection to prevent him from jumping in headfirst, while a slightly timid or cautious youngster might need encouragement even in perfectly safe situations.

Professional trainers suggest that when your puppy shows hesitation towards something, don’t baby him. For instance, if your pup dislikes the slippery feel of vinyl, place a few pieces in or near his play area during supervised times. As you interact with him, purposefully disregard it when he “accidentally” places a foot on the vinyl. Your matter-of-fact attitude helps allay his concerns.

Alternatively, you can try throwing a favorite toy or treats onto the vinyl floor, enough so your pup’s feet make contact. This places his focus on having fun rather than worrying where he steps. As his confidence grows, sitting yourself on the vinyl floor further helps him forget his fears in order to join his favorite person.

These examples of positive, non-force methods illustrates how giving your puppy the time he needs builds confidence in his own abilities. Conversely, forcing a dog to confront and deal with something he is uncomfortable with, often called “flooding”, can be successful, but much depends on the dog, the issue, and application of the method. Done incorrectly, fears increase rather than decrease. For other than experienced trainers, positive works best.