Edie MacKenzie On Dogs

Posts Tagged ‘Pup’

The first licking experienced by a puppy comes from its dam even before the pup’s eyes are open. Licking is used to groom the pup and, after feeding, to cause urination and defecation. It is doubtful that a young pup consciously considers licking a dominant behavior. However, the act of licking can acquire various other meanings to puppies as they mature and gain feedback from other animals (including people) they lick. Licking by neonatal pups is usually aimed at the dam’s mouth and, at least in wild canines, elicits a gratifying regurgitation of food by the dam for its offspring.

Licking another animal can broadly be classified as care-seeking behavior. However, in some females and apparently “feminized” males, licking may occur as a genuine mutual grooming gesture, which could be considered dominant behavior in such situations. When one dog tries to lick the genitals of another, the behavior is considered submissive. This is usually practiced by submissive pack members toward their dominant counterparts.

Licking seems to acquire different meanings when the puppy is brought into the human group. The significance of licking then depends on the type of feedback provided by the pup or its owners. The old idea that dogs lick our hands to benefit from the salt on our skin rarely applies to licking problems. Rather, the problem generally involves a submissive dog and a permissive owner. In these cases, early episodes of licking are permitted (some people feel genuinely flattered when their dog licks them) and the dog appears to enjoy the owner’s response.

In many cases, licking is a factor in another type of problem behavior. These usually involve the dog’s use of licking to dominate the owner’s attentions or to demonstrate its dominant feelings relative to the owner.

How Can Licking Be Prevented?

Licking is a problem only when the owner is present. Therefore licking is usually easily stopped merely by telling the dog not to do it or by moving away and avoiding it. After a few days or weeks of this rejection, the problem disappears. However, this procedure does not correct the basis of the problem, that is, attempts to dominate the owner.

In addition to discouraging licking, the dog must be taught to respond to commands, and owner adjustments made if the dog is “coddled” or otherwise doted on. When it seeks petting or tries to dominate the owner, it should be given a simple command, such as Sit, and then petted briefly as a reward for obedience.

It is recommended that you use some intervening stimulus when the dog begins to pester you. Whether this involves introduction of a chewable toy that the pet is urged to fetch, or a sharp sound, the goal is to divert the animal’s mind off licking and onto something else. During the initial stages of correction, there may be seen many types of substitute behavior, such as whining, pacing or self-licking. If ignored, this behavior usually disappears in a few days.

History and origin of the Bernese Mountain Dog:

Originated in Switzerland, the Bernese Mountain Dog was bred for herding, guarding, drafting, and droving. His large, sturdy frame and long coat allowed him to perform in cold mountainous environments.

Description:

The Bernese Mountain Dog stands 23 to 27.5 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 70 and 100 pounds. He is a large breed and is similar to the Golden Retriever in structure, only heavier and bigger-boned. The shedding coat is medium-long, wavy, glossy, and thick and requires regular brushing to keep it in good condition. The Bernese is tricolored, primarily black with rust and white markings on the chest, muzzle, feet, and forehead.

About the Bernese Mountain Dog:

This large, beautiful, athletic dog is easily trained and makes a great watchdog and a good family pet. Though playful and gregarious as a pup, he tends to become more reserved and guarded as he matures. He is normally affectionate to his owner, but can be very suspicious of strangers. Some are very timid to the point of being phobic. This potential for extreme shyness can lead to a fear-based aggression that is difficult to modify. This breed also possesses a dominant, head-strong temperament. Stubbornness normally calls for a firm, consistent training technique, but many Bernese, particularly the females, can slip into a panicky mind-set if pushed, sometimes resulting in a bite. This tendency is usually a result of poor breeding practices, and may not be reversible.

A well bred Bernese Mountain Dog is trainable, but patience and precision are crucial. The Bernese needs daily exercise and is happier in a rural environment. Because of the potential for aggression, this breed is not recommended for families with children. Early socialization is important from day one, as well as handling and grooming. The Bernese Mountain Dog lives only ten to twelve years and can suffer from hip dysplasia and bloat. Anyone interested in this breed should visit numerous breeders and closely observe the parents and litter mates.

Feeding:

Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 ½ – 2 ½ cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home:

A house with a fenced yard is important for the Bernese Mountain Dog. A strong, patient leader is mandatory, as well as early training, handling, and socialization. Families with children should at present avoid this breed, as should nervous, cautious, and over-bearing people. The elderly and the disabled may not be able to handle the Bernese Mountain Dog.

Demodex mites are present on the skin of all dogs, even Dalmatians, but in some animals born with a defective immune system the numbers increase and begin to cause problems.  Dalmatians are usually cited as one of the most common breeds affected with this condition.  Although it is thought to be genetically transmitted, the mode of transmission has never been conclusively demonstrated.

Most cases of demodicosis are seen in young pups and fully 90% of cases self-cure with or no medical intervention by the time Dalmatians reach18-36 months of age.  In these cases, it is suspected that the immune system is marginally compromised and eventually matures and gets the condition under control.  On the other hand, some pups (about 10% of those initially affected) do not get better and, in fact, become progressively worse.  These are thought to have more severe immunologic compromise and are often labeled as having “generalized demodicosis.”

The diagnosis is easily made by scraping the skin with a scalpel blade and looking at the collected debris under a microscope.  The Demodex mites are cigar-shaped and are easily seen.  What is harder to identify is the immunoiogic defect that allowed the condition to occur in the first place.  Recent research has suggested the problem may be linked to a decrease in interleukin-2 response but the genetics is still a question.

If the cause of the immune dysfunction can be cured, the mange will resolve on its own.  Likewise, if Dalmatians outgrow its immunoiogic immaturity or defect, the condition will self-cure.  This process can best be assisted by ensuring a healthy diet is being fed, treating for any internal parasites or other diseases, and perhaps using cleansing shampoos and nutritional supplements that help bolster the immune system.  However, if the condition does not resolve on its own, or if it is getting worse despite therapy, special mite-killing treatments are necessary.

Amitraz is the most common dip used.  It must be remembered that killing the mites will not restore the immune system to normal.  Regarding prevention, it is best not to breed Dalmatians with a history of demodicosis and dogs with generalized demodicosis should never be bred.

Socialization and training your Dalmatian puppy need to start the very day of his arrival in your home.  You should not address him without calling him by his name.  A short, simple name is the easiest to teach because it catches the puppy’s attention quickly, so avoid giving him elaborate names.  Always address the pup by the same name, not a whole series of pet names because the latter will only confuse your puppy.  Say his name clearly, and call him over to you when you see him awake and wandering about.  When he comes, make a big fuss over him for being such a good dog.  He will then quickly associate the sound of his name with coming to you and a pleasant experience.

It is not too soon to start familiarizing him to the feel of a light collar, which can start as early as several hours after his arrival.  Chances are he may hardly notice it or he may struggle, roll over, and try to rub it off his neck with his paws.  You can divert his attention when this happens by offering a tasty treat, a toy, or by petting him.  Before long he will accept the strange feeling around his neck and will no longer be aware of it.

Next is the lead; attach it and then immediately take the puppy outside or try to redirect his attention with things to see and sniff.  He may struggle against the lead at first, biting at it and trying to free himself.  Do not pull him with it at this point; just hold the end loosely and try to follow him if he starts off in any direction.  Normally his attention will soon turn to investigating his surroundings if he is outside or if is taken into an unfamiliar room in your house; curiosity will take over and he will become interested in sniffing around the surroundings.  Just follow your Dalmatian with the lead slackly held until he seems to have completely forgotten about it; and then try to get him to follow you.

Do not be rough or jerk at him; just tug gently on the lead in short quick motions, repeating his name or trying to get your Dalmatian to follow your hand while holding a bite of food or a favorite toy.  If you have an older lead-trained dog, then it should be easier to get your Dalmatian puppy to follow along after him.  In any case, the average Dalmatian puppy learns quite quickly and will soon be walking along nicely on the lead.

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The moment you decide to own a Dalmatian puppy, you need to start planning for his arrival in your home.  Both you and your new family member will find the transition period much easier if your home is properly equip in advance of the arrival.

One of the first thing you need to prepare for the arrival of your new Dalmatian puppy is a crate.  Every Dalmatian should have a crate of his own from the very beginning, one  that he will come to know and love as his special place where he is comfortable and safe.

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The crate will provide an ideal setting; when you want him to be free, you can just leave the crate open.  Otherwise, you can securely latch it and know that the Dalmatian pup is safely out of trouble.  Also, if you travel with him, his crate can fit nicely in the car.  A crate therefore is a very sensible and sound investment in your puppy’s future safety and happiness and for your own peace of mind.

The crates that are most preferred are the wooden ones with removable side panels, which are ideal for cold weather where the panels in place to keep out drafts and in hot weather where the panels are removed to allow better air circulation.  Wire crates are all suitable in the summer, but they give no protection from cold or drafts.  Aluminum crates, due to the manner in which the metal reflects surrounding temperatures, are not recommended.  If it is cold, so is the metal of the crate; if it is hot, the crate becomes very hot.

When you choose the puppy’s crate, make sure that it is roomy enough not to be outgrown. The crate should have sufficient height so the dog can stand up in it as he gets older and sufficient area so that he can stretch out full length when relaxed.  When the puppy is young, you can give him shredded newspaper to use as a bed; the papers can be replaced with a mat or towels when the dog is older.

Carpet remnants are great for the bottom of the crate because they are inexpensive and can be easily replaced in case of accidents. As the dog matures and is past the chewing age, a pillow or blanket in the crate can provide warm and comfort.

If you live in an apartment , a baby’s playpen for your Dalmatian puppy works great.  For an older Dalmatian puppy use a portable exercise pen which you can use later when traveling with your dog or for dog shows.  If you have a yard or an area where he can be outside in safety, it should be fenced in prior to the dog’s arrival. This area does not need to be huge, but it does need to be made safe and secure.

If you live in a suburban area where there are close neighbors, stockade fencing works out best.  If you are out in the country where no problems with neighbors are likely to occur, then regular chain-link fencing is fine.  For added precaution in both cases, use concrete blocks or railroad ties inside against the entire bottom of the fence; this reduces the chance of your Dalmatian digging his way out.